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danny_galaga

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Everything posted by danny_galaga

  1. danny_galaga
    Look at this knob head. What an entitled douche. Risking unwilling and unwitting lives (Language warning)
  2. danny_galaga
    I should think if you oiled it, that would wash out with the fuel pretty quickly
  3. danny_galaga
    Spark plug debate here: https://www.recreationalflying.com/forums/topic/39835-rotax-9-series-engines-anti-seize-thermal-paste-nothing/#comment-566016
  4. danny_galaga
    Yeah, it's kind of a runway incursion isn't it?
  5. danny_galaga
    People in boat injured. All plane occupants ok. As you can imagine, sea plane activity in Vancouver is very busy
  6. danny_galaga
    Check https://www.vectriqparts.com.au/ They do better than original replacement regulators etc for lots of bikes and at least the Rotax 912, which I have. I couldn't immediately see if they have your one but worth a shot.
  7. danny_galaga
    Ger your mate to go back to the dentist!
  8. danny_galaga
    Sorry, I should have said stator, not field. My point is that regulating the output instead of the input is no big deal when it's only say 20 amps at most. You forgot to mention that the regulator is doing those steps many times a second. When described in steps people may not realise it. It's a fairly smooth operation from our point of view. I admit I know nothing of how it affects anything other than a lead acid battery. Those are pretty forgiving. Just pointing out that for general purposes they work just as well as regulating a rotor (which as you point out is actually the field winding, permanent magnets being the alternative to an electrically created field)
  9. danny_galaga
    It's not a problem with modern regulators. You already pointed it out- they regulate the output (field windings) on a permanent magnet jobby. There's more waste through heat of course from regulating say 20 amps instead of the 4 or 5 of a rotor coil.
  10. danny_galaga
    Oh, you don't have to explain it to us, we're good with it. Just email the Rotax engineers and tell them why they should stop recommending heat transfer paste. Be convincing and we'll all love you for it because then hopefully they'll recommend using nothing at all, saving us Rotax drivers money 🙂 But please, FFS, use this link for continued debate https://www.recreationalflying.com/forums/topic/39835-rotax-9-series-engines-anti-seize-thermal-paste-nothing/#comment-566016
  11. danny_galaga
    The joke is you seem to be ignoring what the Rotax engineers are recommending. Maybe you could write them a letter to tell them where they are going wrong? All this is making the spare parts thread needlessly long.
  12. danny_galaga
    That's what I'VE been doing 😄
  13. danny_galaga
    I beg to differ on reaming. We used to do it all the time on the larger truck starters. Some of them were made so you HAD to ream them. Virtually no small starter will need to be reamed. Whatever the fit, that's how it goes. Some will seem criminally loose, that's just how they are. The worst in cars were Delco Remy and the Ford clap trap starter. Best were Bosch in my opinion
  14. danny_galaga
    Bugger. I give mine to the op shop from time to time. I WOULD have had it. Have you tried eBay? The one magazine I collect (Retro Gamer ) I was able to replace a couple of missing issues via eBay. Set up a loose search first to see what is out there ..I just tried 'sport pilot magazine ' and that got lots of hits. Save that search term and also look every now and then more specifically - add the year for instance. Right now that got me August. It took me many months to find mine, but there was not much effort because I would get emails when something came up. The reason I suggest a loose search as well as more specific is sometimes your magazine might be in a bulk lot. Good luck 🙂
  15. danny_galaga
  16. danny_galaga
    Sounds like it. As facthunter says, bearings might be shot. Do you know what they source for the starter? It'll be a car or motorbike starter for sure. With luck luck you can get a bush kit for it, if it's that style of starter. If sintered bushes, do this- put the bush on the tip of your finger. Fill it up with motor oil, then quickly clamp down on the top with your thumb and squeeze it. You should see oil bubble through the metal. That gets it nice and lubed 🙂 If you estimate you have at least half brushes left, probably best to leave them.
  17. danny_galaga
    Certainly worth testing, but most of the heat will be at the brush end. Hundreds of amps through carbon brushes is a weak link, resistively speaking.
  18. danny_galaga
    Of course I forgot to mention we are talking about the spark plugs in case anyone is wondering 😄
  19. danny_galaga
    Spark plug debate here: https://www.recreationalflying.com/forums/topic/39835-rotax-9-series-engines-anti-seize-thermal-paste-nothing/
  20. danny_galaga
    Here you can debate the merits. Personally, I think Rotax should know what's good for their engines. They designed them. They have by now tens of thousands of hours of data on them. To me the only thing to debate is WHICH thermal paste is a good alternative to the apparent hens teeth Rotax recommend.
  21. danny_galaga
    Damn, big jump in price 😲
  22. danny_galaga
    If you have the chute, and there's some chance you'll crash trying to land it, you might as well pull the chute. Very high survival rate and besides the airplane now belongs to the insurance company in any case.
  23. danny_galaga
    Who knows? It has silver in it, conducts heat and electricity. Just like in heatsinks, it doesn't conduct heat nearly as well as metal to metal, but it does conduct way better than air. You are only filling in the tiny air gaps that appear between the threads. Much of the heat, and probably all of the electrical current is being conducted metal to metal.
  24. danny_galaga
    I just went to Jaycar
  25. danny_galaga
    We don't know who's right yet 😄 But in the world of starters it's unusual to have basically the same starter built for two directions. Definitely can occur, most obvious example I remember is the Bosch car starter motor. They built a version that ran the other way for air cooled VW's. Every other one spun the same way as virtually any other car starter. But we are talking hundreds of thousands, and then millions of VW's versus a few thousand 912s. With something niche, normally you work around what's readily available. We've seen that with other peripheral parts of that engine, including the fuel pump. I wish I'd thought of all this before I put my engine in, I would have tested the starter on the bench. Now the engine is in, it's a real pain to get to. Maybe the mount was designed by someone from Alfa Romeo 😄
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