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danny_galaga

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Everything posted by danny_galaga

  1. danny_galaga
    I wasn't confused. I don't think you would describe the balloon crashing as a 'fall'. In any case, I wonder what could have happened? I've been in a hot air balloon. And while it did give me the Willie's a little (believe it or not I'm not great with heights 😄) the side of the basket was pretty high.
  2. danny_galaga
    Maybe not quite up our alley, but it is recreational aviation. https://amp.9news.com.au/article/343b724d-4c88-458a-b757-a634b8bfce65
  3. danny_galaga
    Welcome aboard! I lived in Van City for six months years ago. You are so lucky to live in one of the most beautiful parts of the world. Every flight will be lovely I'm sure 🙂
  4. danny_galaga
    Not poor taste at all. That's funny and clever. You should get the title changed to that ☺️
  5. danny_galaga
    Sorry pmccarthy, right you are. Onetrack, I think we can't know enough about the pilot to talk about suicide. That just comes off as ghoulish I think.
  6. danny_galaga
    A couple of us here have blue oil line on our 912ULS. mine was supplied by my mechanic and it is fitted to other 912 he services. Can't remember brand or anything.
  7. danny_galaga
    I thought wed established he was converting from RPL or something. Maybe the 4 hours is PPL?
  8. danny_galaga
    Third and fourth pic 🙂
  9. danny_galaga
    So funny, if you look at the third and fourth pics, that's what I'm running now. The lil jigger and Narva battery switch 😄
  10. danny_galaga
    I wasn't actually kidding Facthunter 😄 Check out this thread https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/213831-dual-alternator-questions/
  11. danny_galaga
    Almost certainly for a stereo
  12. danny_galaga
    Very interesting, but it does circle back to the fact you need a pretty high amperage object to handle the starter motor cranking current if you want to isolate the whole battery. I personally would allow 500 amps cranking current for the Rotax starter. You might get away with say 200 amp but good chance you keep tripping it when trying to start.
  13. danny_galaga
    I finally had the title changed to the correct wording so as not to continue any confusion 🙂
  14. danny_galaga
    Just realised I didn't put in the description that got me to this link. One day for sure the link will be dead, and no one will know what the description is! So here's the description in the link: ZS Racing 90-degree Throttle Cable Adjuster For PHBG Keihin PWK PJ PWM PE Mikuni TM VM Carburetor Spare Parts
  15. danny_galaga
    If the certified aircraft has a Rotax, I think you'll find spade connectors on our friend- the reg/rec 😄
  16. danny_galaga
    You're still overthinking it for many ultralights. A switch alone can handle the current I'm talking about. What's the voltage drop across a good switch? It's pretty minimal, way less power loss than any superfluous extra wiring and doohickeys you have to add. More power less and more weight. But if your objection is spade terminals, I present, for your edification 🙂
  17. danny_galaga
    I get that what is good about it is that you have a very low trigger current, which is especially useful if you wanted to trigger it with say a 555 timer or something, or where you have a big boy plane with a panel drawing 25amps and a 170 amp alternator bolted to that Lycoming 0360. But I am talking about ultralights here. The total output of the alternator is 17 amps. That's the total, but all the loads add up to maybe 5 amps through my (described rather than named because I admit I'm guilty of confusing terms) OFF/ON/START switch. But if for some reason I thought that was too heavy a load for that switch (which it isn't), why wouldn't I just use a 35amp automotive relay? That will have a switching current of maybe 200 mA. What is the SSR? 50mA? But it's constantly dumping power. So yes, only 50mA through the switch, but several amps as heat through the heatsink, while the 35amp relay is only losing 200mA total. The original query was about total isolation of the battery. To do that needs something that can handle the cranking current of the starter. Which is either a giant relay (which is why I started the thread since I hated the idea) or a giant switch AKA a battery isolation switch. Gotta keep it simple on an ultralight, especially with only 17 amps to play with 🙂
  18. danny_galaga
    Quick, you only have 15 minutes!
  19. danny_galaga
    Life of Brian? He's not the Messiah, he's just a very naughty boy!
  20. danny_galaga
    I don't care about what 'gay' means to anyone. The one that annoys me the most is AWESOME Having a particularly nice sandwich AND seeing a volcano blowing up and enveloping the town below in ash and lava cannot both be 'awesome'.
  21. danny_galaga
    Geez, how old are you? Gay has meant homosexual since the 1930s 😅
  22. danny_galaga
    I already bought a long tubey one from Clear Prop. But if the plastic pin goes on it I'll either "borrow" the cup I found, else fit a steel pin to my tubey one 🙂
  23. danny_galaga
    Would you believe I just found one in the hangar 😄 But I like the long tubey ones. Doubles as screwdriver for the cowl, and long and tall means it's easier to see water in it. The new one works well. Best would be long tubey one with a steel pin 🙂
  24. danny_galaga
    Yes, and it does that by switching off a big relay/solenoid. I'm very happy to have avoided that by just having a giant switch 🙂 And there can't be any confusion about what the switch does- it's big and red and has a picture of a battery on it 😄
  25. danny_galaga
    Yes, this is great advice. Maybe not today, but before it gets flying 🙂
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