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danny_galaga

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Everything posted by danny_galaga

  1. danny_galaga
    I remember them well. The characters were 1930s American gangsters 🙂
  2. danny_galaga
    Haven't read this all the way through but just thought I'd point out some low wing planes have doors, not bubble canopies. One I know well is the Piper PA28 Warrior, and all its cousins and brothers .
  3. danny_galaga
    "And goils ain't goils" ☺️
  4. danny_galaga
    Oh, I see. As far as I know, the reg/rec that I bought, which is made for the Rotax 912 has better specs than the original part. That is to say, it is designed as an improvement on the original. Better cooling, better electronics, simpler wiring etc. for instance, it doesn't have that strange C wire. When the engine isn't running, the regulator isn't on. It's not slowly discharging the battery....
  5. danny_galaga
    Anything with the word DUCATI written on it is the downgrade 😀
  6. danny_galaga
    I agree with the last two posts. The recommended oil isn't that expensive in the scheme of things. On insurance, since it seems no one seems to investigate anything in ra Aus aircraft, if your Rotax use is in such a plane, it seems you could run it with cooking oil and no one would care... (Note: do NOT use cooking oil in your engine)
  7. danny_galaga
    Yeah, we transported my half finished plane on a car trailer. And wings and cowls etc in a rental 3.5 tonne truck. Went ok, but really hadn't thought about insurance or anything.
  8. danny_galaga
    Mum and dad and a trusty land Rover
  9. danny_galaga
    Yes, I imagine you would want to carry some spare hoses and belts at least when 4wd-ing. Not so useful in a plane 😄 My dad used to 4wd a lot in the 60s for work. I KNOW he carried bugger all spares of anything. And just basic tools..quite the bush mechanic he was.
  10. danny_galaga
    Not really..it's not like I'm going to carry all that stuff in the back of my plane 'just in case', which is what you suggested in your post just before. My list is of viable replacements. As I find out about it, I add it to the list so that years later I'm not thinking 'where did I see that alternative online?'. Instead, I can look at my list, and see, for instance (courtesy of skippydiesel I think in this case): Fuel pump: Pierburg 7.02242.32.0 - Fuel Pump https://spareto.com/products/pierburg-fuel-pump/7-02242-32-0 Not branded as Rotax, but from the same manufacturer.
  11. danny_galaga
    Thats a different sort of list. What I was talking about was service parts for my plane, and sourcing them from elsewhere than Rotax for the engine or the kit manufacturer for the rest. What got me going was the radiator hoses. And in the end I ended up ditching the hoses from the kit, even before they were used and sourced better fitting ones from Gates etc. I also know what make and model my radiators are now too so I can probably source them in Australia instead of getting them sent from overseas.
  12. danny_galaga
    Good to know. The VDO sensor I mentioned I think is different to your combo. That means you would have to replace the lot. Sometimes you just want a drop in replacement part. The ro TAX might be too steep, but hunting around gets you the exact part at a fraction of the price of the 'genuine' part. As you say, not as cheap as your set, but there's no mucking around either. But now you have that VDO part number, you could indeed find a bulk source and sell those alongside the sets. It's for head and cylinder sensors, they are the same. In my case, I have one unused head sensor so I'm just swapping my faulty oil sensor with that one.
  13. danny_galaga
    The other I found out about recently for 9x series are the cylinder temp and oil temp sensors. I haven't tried this but since the OEM and the alternative are VDO this should be correct. Cut and paste from elsewhere, links may or may not be viable: Water/oil temp sensor: The VDO part number you would be looking for that should replace the Rotax part is 323-801-010-001D, stamped 801/10/1 by VDO, 300F or 150C max.. Here are the two non-ebay webshops that I found to source these with the one in the NL to be too expensive on shipping for me to consider it. http://www.etbinstruments.com/ https://vdo-webshop.nl/en/
  14. danny_galaga
    Agreed. The things I'm looking at are mostly alternatives to Rotax. Trying to avoid the ro TAX 😄
  15. danny_galaga
    For Rotax 9x https://www.vectriqparts.com.au/product/rotax-voltage-regulator-carr5115/
  16. danny_galaga
    Coulda sworn I put this here, but seems I haven't. This is an improved regulator, it actually probably costs more than the 'original' but it runs cooler, has less wiring and doesn't need a capacitor 😎 CARR5115 from vectriqparts.com.au
  17. danny_galaga
    Yes, I probably did already 😂 Just realised I have it in my own notes: CARR5115 from vectriqparts.com.au
  18. danny_galaga
    Good to know, but the one aftermarket thing I spent more on than the 'original' is the regulator. I bought a Dutch one, name eludes me right now. They've been making regulators and rectifiers to replace hard to find motorcycle parts for years. And Rotax. And of course to replace any crappy Italian electronics 😄 Upshot is mine doesn't need a capacitor (either better design or a capacitor built in or I don't know what) and has one less wire. It just has AC in and DC out, and a warning light. Simples ☺️
  19. danny_galaga
    I do like this sort of idea, and I think oldkorelah did something like that. It's the lightest way to go since a light aluminium tube extension to a switch close to the battery is going to be lighter than copper cable. I thought of doing something like that with my little motorcycle battery isolator. But I have to weigh getting the plane actually flying against experimenting with homemade gadgets. I've been building this too long.
  20. danny_galaga
    Agree, that's what I've just put in my panel 🙂
  21. danny_galaga
    There will be an extra 550mm cable..it's still less cable overall than the kits master solenoid idea. And WAY less than some aircraft where they've had to put the Battery rearwards for C of G purposes 🙂
  22. danny_galaga
    A bit of an update. I had put a little motorcycle battery isolator in, but of course that's not easy to reach. Fine if I'm on the ground. But if I happened to need to use it in flight, I'd probably 'John Denver ' myself. So I picked up a panel mounted isolator from Whitworth marine. Much the same as the ones with the red plastic key, but these look tidier. Might as well have form AND function if it's available. Installed it where my USB outlet was, which I moved over. Looks tidy there and it's just about the shortest amount of extra cable at the location 🙂
  23. danny_galaga
    The hour meter is built in to the tacho. The tacho is working fine, thus the earth is fine. Perfectly logical 🙂 On top of that, when the revs are above 1800, the hour meter switches to revs. It does this faultlessly. I have a reply from aviasport. I'll see where we go from there, but I just bought an $8 hour meter from eBay as recommended by a friend. He fits them to all motorbikes he's owned. The oldest hour meter is 6 years now and still fine.
  24. danny_galaga
    What is RA? I take it that refers to the close call...
  25. danny_galaga
    There is Enroute Flight Navigation, which is free but it may not have all the bells and whistles. Someone here put me on to it. I downloaded just to test out my skyecho. But if you don't want to give money to 'The Man' check it out. You have nothing to lose.
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