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danny_galaga

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Everything posted by danny_galaga

  1. danny_galaga
    Im a big believer in just not having the impossible turn in my 'vocabulary'. If straight out of the runway, it's within 30° from straight for me. I'm not an aerobatic pilot with thousands of hours under my belt...
  2. danny_galaga
    Dunno. The pilot of the Jab in the example linked earlier survived. He kept it together even once his clothes caught on fire. Not saying I would be as determined but it's a real example of hanging in there and surviving.
  3. danny_galaga
    It's all too early to know. There's a very good chance it caught on fire after coming down, but in-flight is plausible too. If they don't look at the aircraft particularly carefully, maybe the biggest clue will be the autopsy - illness/heart attack, smoke in lungs? , etc
  4. danny_galaga
    Sure. What I mean though is the fact the plane is kit built is not the reason they are not investigating it.
  5. danny_galaga
    I hate that the news has quoted ATSB as saying they don't investigate because it is 'kit built '. The reason they don't investigate (all the politics aside) is it is an RA AUS registered plane . If it was kit built and VH registered it would be investigated I presume.
  6. danny_galaga
    Mystery solved - I had the fuel IN line and fuel RETURN line mixed 😄 It meant that there was only a trickle of fuel. The hose to the left carby is much shorter than the right so what little fuel there was mostly went to the left, making it seem to run like one carby was faulty. I ran it for about 20 minutes once it started to see how hot it would get. About 85° which is nice. Finally got to do radio check with the engine running too. Yay! So in the end I needn't have even taken the carbies off at all! But at least I now know a bit more about the insides of Bing carbies.
  7. danny_galaga
    I'm replacing any easy to get ones since I have the kit. The current O rings are in great condition, still soft but I got the basic kit for the choke gaskets, and the bowl seals. Might as well use the others.
  8. danny_galaga
    I didn't mean the spring as such, but where that shaft goes into the guide. Or put more simply, is ANY part in there lubed? I suspect not, but thought I'd ask 🙂
  9. danny_galaga
    I'm probably going to leave them alone. But I found a great write up on CV carbs from this BMW guy. Quite informative: https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/bingcv.htm Since you've had them apart, a question about the slide where the diaphragm spring is. My feeling is it wouldn't be lubed- after all, the carby slide isn't lubed. Am I correct in that assumption?
  10. danny_galaga
    <q> Ordered the basic O ring/gasket kit on Monday. From California. Received it today. God I love Aircraft Spruce and UPS ☺️ Meanwhile something I ordered from Toowoomba the same day still isn't here. I'm in Brisbane 😄 </q>
  11. danny_galaga
    Ordered the basic O ring/gasket kit on Monday. From California. Received it today. God I love Aircraft Spruce and UPS ☺️ Meanwhile something I ordered from Toowoomba the same day still isn't here. I'm in Brisbane 😄
  12. danny_galaga
    Or perhaps use what I already made. The carbs look great, which is a concern in a way because I was hoping for something obvious. It may be that I have removed a blockage or something without even noticing when I cleaned them up. Since it was pretty simple to remove and inspect, and I know the floats are ok I will get the basic O ring and gasket set and put em back together
  13. danny_galaga
    Things you learn. Mine have the R written on them. Good to know https://www.rotax-owner.com/en/912-914-technical-questions/8174-float-weight
  14. danny_galaga
    Right hand carby floats - 3.2 grams and 3.15 grams
  15. danny_galaga
    That's great. I didn't have any agate wedges on me, but the K & S tubing I used swivels with less than 0.05 grams on one side. Feel free to send me some agate wedges for my mark 2 version.
  16. danny_galaga
    😞 I just finished making them. Accurate to 0.05 grams. Thought I should have the scales ready before I take the floats out. I believe they should still be wet, and then dry them for a minute before weighing.
  17. danny_galaga
    Well, Qld is celebrating some random old persons birthday today, so I am going to start pulling em apart. It's midday, why haven't I started yet? This is why
  18. danny_galaga
    I read it too. I don't think it was epoxy, but was definitely some sort of treatment, from Loctite. Apparently that's why the carbs are now a dark grey
  19. danny_galaga
    Had twin SUs on my Triumph sedan..they were teh suck
  20. danny_galaga
    It's not the whole carb that is coated. There is a bore that needs to be dead end. So it has a ball bearing sealing it. I think it's pressed in, and then sealed with epoxy.
  21. danny_galaga
    Screw it, I think I'll get the full kits. Imagine if my engine started running rough in flight, particularly on takeoff. Theres enough shaking you'd want to shut it down quick smart. Dlegg, I know where you are coming from. I am involved in the retro gaming scene. With arcade monitors, one of the most common problems is a capacitor going out of spec or failing. Replace that and you are golden..which one though? There's usually dozens. So what people do is use a 'cap kit' and replace every single cap. Problem solved. Two things with that though 1) what a waste. 2) it really is a case of 'they don't make them like they used to'. Almost certainly, all the good caps that just got thrown out, aren't just better quality, but would probably outlast the new one,even though the new one has say a TWENTY TO FORTY YEAR head start 😯 Better to individually test them, and only replace what is broke. I digress. In this case, I think it might be best to just do the whole lot, floats and all. Safety first. And at least I'm not replacing the parts with the equivalent of a Chinese cap kit 😄
  22. danny_galaga
    Ok. will do. So THEN my next conundrum is do I get this kit, which does two carbies, but has no floats or float lever thingies or springs etc: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/15-05914.php or do I go with two of these, which has everything, but adds up to a hell of a lot more: https://www.leadingedgeairfoils.com/rotax-engines-parts/genuine-rotax-parts/4-stroke-parts-912-914-series/912-914-series-parts/carburetors-fuel-system/overhaul-kit-carburetor-912-912uls.html I guess I have to make a careful assessment of wear and tear first...
  23. danny_galaga
    It's taken me 4 years to build a kit that apparently should only take 6 weeks. Imma need more than 3 or 4 hours 😄 If mechanically everything is fine, I notice there is an O ring and gasket only 'sub' kit available. That might be a good thing to go with, provided the diaphragms still look good. What do you think? https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/bingdualcarb15-09421.php?clickkey=10575489
  24. danny_galaga
    Is there a normal overhaul period of hours or years for carbies like there is for rubber hose replacement?
  25. danny_galaga
    New build airplane I only put fuel in it when I was ready to start it a couple of weeks ago. Engine is I think 2017, 1800 odd hours on it. As far as I know they are the carbies that were on it when it last ran but admit I can't be 100% sure. I will take the carbies off this weekend and take them home to work on them in a (relatively 😄) clean environment. I guess strip the major components, soak in carbie cleaner? Inspect for wear/damage of needles/O rings / gaskets etc? I'll have to find my beam balance weights I made years ago to weigh the floats..from memory they went to 0.1 grams. I'm guessing that will be accurate enough 😄
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