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danny_galaga

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Everything posted by danny_galaga

  1. danny_galaga
    When I used to work at an auto electrical wholesaler, we used to say that if it's marine grade, double the price. If it's aviation grade, add a zero 😄
  2. danny_galaga
    For a short time a couple of years ago, china was number 2 in the world for patents submitted, overtaking Japan. I think they are number 3 again now. Clearly then, they are way beyond just copying stuff. Having said that, also clearly, this engine is a copy and not licence built. Edit: I misremembered. They were number one. https://www.visualcapitalist.com/cp/countries-new-patents/
  3. danny_galaga
    No idea what model mine is, came with the Bushcat kit. Facet 'cube'. If anyone is using facet, as far as I know they don't make 'aircraft' grade pumps, so just get it from Repco etc...
  4. danny_galaga
    I have an MGL but haven't tested in flight yet. Becker is German and reputable.
  5. danny_galaga
    In my case it was a matter of getting the parts. Full stop
  6. danny_galaga
    I just received some throttle arms from loravia https://loravia.com/shop/index.php?route=product/search&keyword=Bing&description=true&model=1
  7. danny_galaga
    I sometimes wonder if I'm going to add to that statistic...
  8. danny_galaga
    Tell me about it! It would have been better to just do my re-solo, which I did. And then stop until the plane was say 75% complete. Ive been building for about 4 years.
  9. danny_galaga
    I think less than 20 hours a year for me. Hopefully at least 50 a year once I've finished building my stupid plane 😄
  10. danny_galaga
    I used a combination of Datsun 120y and universal
  11. danny_galaga
    This is the sort of kit I was talking about. One side effect would have to be you've reduced road clearance but on a plane it wouldn't be such a big deal https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/au/ac1151792-maxi-pump-2-with-oil-filter-mount.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw44mlBhAQEiwAqP3eViRvfIRluPrzWk3rN6rRHJdlyQMGznrXgaTe0VMluyXo2ykVjE5eIxoCITUQAvD_BwE
  12. danny_galaga
    Yes, and you would remember that you had to use non modified/non detergent oil else small particles would just keep circulating the engine instead of building up in that screen. I only ever cleaned my screen once. Didn't look very grotty. That either means not much wear, or a whole bunch of crap just kept circulating, not fazed by the screen 😄 You could also get an aftermarket oil filter kit. Would they be using something similar in the Aero versions do you think?
  13. danny_galaga
    I also believe they weren't really meant to go beyond 50,000km . Which would take a long time for the average German family in the 1930s. Probably why even into the 70s the odometer clocked over after 99,999 😄
  14. danny_galaga
    That's the conclusion we have come to. My battery is on the inside of the firewall. Cables go through a fibreglass firewall with grommets. Even if it rubbed through nothing would happen. Negative goes straight to the back of the starter. Positive to the starter solenoid which is mounted on the outside of the firewall pretty close to the starter and battery. The kit has you put the solenoid WAAAY over on the left side- quite a long cable run and more chance of a short.
  15. danny_galaga
    Have I misremembered it? I wonder what I was thinking of...
  16. danny_galaga
    Like I say, you regulate the output instead. If it's some sort of linear regulator, it will dump excess energy as heat through diodes (not the rectifier)
  17. danny_galaga
    As the op I just of something that can be a pain with VW, but not sure about Rotax. That is, one of the crank bearings, might be centre, Is a ring rather than two halves. From memory it's so onerous to try and change (the crank is pressed together trapping the ring bearing in place) that virtually no one ever replaces them. So even the fanciest souped up VW might still have it's original ring bearing. I wonder if this is the case for any of the Aero VW jobbies?
  18. danny_galaga
    Slip ring is on a rotor. Yes, if you open circuit a rotor you stop making the electrickery. That is a powered rotor commonly seen on stand alone alternators. And the regulator only has to govern the rotor voltage to regulate total output.On a lot of lighter machines, and my Rotax the rotor is a permanent magnet. The regulator has to control the output voltage. Not ideal, but on the Rotax it's 17 amps instead of say 4 amps for a rotor. Which isn't leaps and bounds different. Only the stator side going open circuit is going to cause a problem. For instance, disconnecting the battery while the alternator is operating.
  19. danny_galaga
    The AC coil doesn't really 'know' where to stop with voltage. If open circuit, and therefore no load it tries for infinity.
  20. danny_galaga
    Well, I would rather not have anything at all but everyone insists that if I don't have an isolation solenoid/relay then I should have a mechanical isolator. Clearly it's not something you would disconnect while the engine is running. It's for emergency use only.
  21. danny_galaga
    The isolator I'm using, yet to be tested is a small motorcycle screw type. Winding the knob out disconnects, and if you really need to you can wind it all the way out until the lead falls off.
  22. danny_galaga
    I only ask because an LAME apprentice was in the hanger and we were talking about it. He was pretty confident you HAVE to have on in GA, but wasn't sure about 19 rego...
  23. danny_galaga
    If there is anything written about it, can anyone point me in the right direction? Ra Aus technical manual?
  24. danny_galaga
    My isolator as it happens is on the negative purely because it was easier to install on that side. For the purpose of this thread solenoid=relay. As a auto sparky we always referred to them as solenoids to differentiate from regular (30amp 70amp etc) relays. So long as I don't legally need an electrically operated isolation switch of any sort, I'm not going to install one. If it's a legal requirement I will of course.
  25. danny_galaga
    Thought I'd asked this before, but couldn't find the thread. As per title, do you legally need one? I have a basic mechanical battery isolator at the moment. If I don't legally require one, I'd rather save the weight and extra complexity. I think when I asked before you guys convinced me about the virtue of a starter solenoid warning light so I know if the starter is still engaged. So I have that and the mechanical battery isolator .
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