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danny_galaga

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Everything posted by danny_galaga

  1. danny_galaga
    Or thousands more hours for anything that isn't Ducati or Harley 😀
  2. danny_galaga
    In the long run, which has higher servicing costs? What's the TBO for the Lycoming?
  3. danny_galaga
    If it's properly joined, crimp or solder, then it's sealed. You can only get the tiniest bit of corrosion around the edge of the lug. Not saying it won't happen. Most likely if it is getting wet, particularly sea water. Then you have a nice electrolyte in the equation. When I was an apprentice I remember going out to a job where another apprentice had put brass bolts on an aluminium hull. Owner wasn't best pleased and told the shop to come back and fix it. It got my curiosity. When I went home I put a piece of copper and a piece of aluminium into a glass of salty water and measured it. It was generating something like 0.6 (from memory) volts! That's pretty impressive. I have determined that I will try and keep my aircraft out of the ocean 😀
  4. danny_galaga
    Yes, I didn't even worry about getting the Rotax supplied regulator. Got a better one, and it even has less wires to worry about. Less is more as they say...
  5. danny_galaga
    I am dismayed that Rotax are using parts from the most fragile motorbikes on earth 😄
  6. danny_galaga
    I'll stick with that then 🙂
  7. danny_galaga
    So I learnt to fly in a Piper, and yes the standard procedure was to shut the mixture off . But now I've re-learnt to fly with RA-AUS, it seems with Rotax the standard way is just shut the ignition switches off. What are your thoughts on that? Does anyone shut down Rotax via fuel switch?
  8. danny_galaga
  9. danny_galaga
    Don't forget I used to be an auto electrician, so I will definitely observe those things 🙂
  10. danny_galaga
    Case closed. I was curious if anyone was using automotive cable. Turns out some people are. So will I 🙂
  11. danny_galaga
    Without looking it up, I wouldn't be surprised if it's to do with fatigue. Aluminium wire I reckon would crack easier than copper. I feel it would have less flex I had no idea it was being used for starter motor cables though 😲
  12. danny_galaga
    That's getting a bit academic. I'm not building a 11kv transmission tower! Everyone uses copper cables for starter motors. so will I. Lucas sometimes used aluminium for field windings in their starters. The copper tag of the brushes were spot welded on. If you had to replace them, normally you would cut off the brush, leaving a bit of the copper tag behind. Then bind the new brush on with a single stand of copper wire and solder. One place I worked at did a lot of vintage stuff, and someone had a roll of 'aluminium' solder. Not sure what it was made from. Apparently unobtainium, because you couldn't buy it anymore. But it could solder copper to aluminium! I never used it though.
  13. danny_galaga
    When you say some manufacturers, do you mean aircraft manufacturers? It's certainly best to keep the lead as short as possible. You need cable going to a starter motor. It needs to be flexible.
  14. danny_galaga
    Fully agree. We always soldered our cables with gas. The flux was a paste from memory.
  15. danny_galaga
    Particularly the 'motorbike sized' starters like Rotax and Jabiru. Just curious. Would be much easier to set up with automotive than tefzel. You can get pre-made lengths easily enough. Obviously a drawback is it would be more likely to create smoke in a dead short situation. My thought is that with an isolator, it shouldn't be a problem. The run is quite short in my plane too, which also reduces the risk of a short.
  16. danny_galaga
    I think they use reduction gear starters now. Pretty sure my Victory did. At one stage Harley were using Hitachi starters 😄
  17. danny_galaga
    Yeah that pic seems to be an aftermarket part from Turkey. Delco were ok. My own personal opinion was that Bosch were the gold standard in quality. Nippon Denso weren't bad (and as we are noticing on this little journey, quite ubiquitous on small engines). At the bottom of the heap in terms of design and or quality were Lucas, prestolite, magnetti Martelli and Hitachi There were niches of course. CAV made really good quality truck starters, albeit complicated. Bosch next in truck starters, then Delco. Delco weren't bad mind you. Just a bit simpler. Easy to overhaul though.
  18. danny_galaga
    Damn it was hard to find a 3 brush starter example. I thought I was losing my mind 😄
  19. danny_galaga
    Looks like the latter Rotax starters are 4 brush, and the earlier black starters are 2 brush
  20. danny_galaga
    It's a very small force compared to everything else going on in there. A lot of the 2 brush jobbies are 90 degrees to each other. On my accusation of a RO-tax on the starter. Maybe I was too harsh. Here's the price for the similar Suzuki starter mentioned earlier 😲 https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-vx800-1990-l_model14275/partslist/FIG-23.html#.ZDZm6WR_U0E Price for that after market one is about $210 including freight as far as I can tell. 🤔
  21. danny_galaga
    Oh actually, I think maybe two on one side and one on the other because one of the poles (I want to say +) might run hotter...
  22. danny_galaga
    Most car and truck starters have 4 brushes. Some of the smaller Nippon Denso car starters had 3. Maybe I was mixing up that memory with something I'd seen recently! I never knew why 3 when I was an apprentice but I'm thinking it would be a way of increasing resistance for a lower current draw on existing 4 brush designs. Why not two then? Haven't the foggiest 😄
  23. danny_galaga
    Apologies. I could have sworn I saw 3 somewhere!
  24. danny_galaga
    You know, I've thought about it since more, and I'm tempted to buy that German after market F650 starter for shits and giggles. If it turns out to be not useful, it will be easy to sell on...
  25. danny_galaga
    That's a two brush starter. What did you do for the third brush? Or were they ok? Can narrow down those kits to a f650 or vx800 starter. If you need to change the brushes for instance, there can be different compounds. That can make a huge difference. For instance, the only difference between a 12v 40mt truck starter and a 24v 40mt truck starter was the brushes, and you didn't undercut the commutator bars.
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