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danny_galaga

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Everything posted by danny_galaga

  1. danny_galaga
    The radiator hose is 90 degrees, but the angle it is bent to is maybe 80 degrees. when you do that, it pinches a bit. May not make any difference, but i feel better if that spring is in there. The hose itself is a tad lighter so I would say the extra 30 grams of the spring or whatever it is is balanced out by the lighter hoses 🙂
  2. danny_galaga
    So even though I had the part number for the actual radiator hose the kit factory uses, I wasn't very happy. The hose is about 27mm ID and the expansion bottle and Ali pipes in the kit are 25mm ID. People are living with it, but I think it's not great form to be trying to seal that difference by tightening hard or putting the clamp on the barb. So I took a leaf out of Blues book and compared other hoses in 25mm. Did it online but I identified two Gates universal hoses that allows me to at least get the back of the motor done before I install it in the plane. I also bought a SS spring to put in inside one that bends slightly past 90 degrees. Had to modify the spring because they sold me the wrong type, which was to go on the outside of hoses. A little win, and those Gates numbers will go in my list ☺️
  3. danny_galaga
    Size? Part number? GTH just means general transmission hose or summink. My manual just says 'hose supplied by rotax' . I went to Repco for something else (see next post!) While I was there asked about GTH8 . They had Gates transmission hose, but it didn't have the word GTH8 so I passed. I was on my way to hydraulink. When I got there it turns out hydraulink are a mobile service and he was on a call out. That's when I lost interest 😅 Everything nowadays has a part number. The only part number we seem to be able to get for this fantastical hose is this Cunti stuff. I only need a metre. I didn't ask the price from the mechanic. Maybe he has a line on something like Gates too. But at worst I'm out by the difference (($60 maybe?) and I can fit the engine tomorrow 🙂 We can revisit the oil hose mystery in five years when I have to replace it. But for a success story, read on!
  4. danny_galaga
    Nope 😂 Time is money. And patience needs time. The mystery of the oil hose is at once exasperating and mundane. It's like it's made of a combination of rocking horse shit, gold and hens teeth 😄 Engine is going in tomorrow, my mechanic at the airfield has some hose hell sell me. I'll just do those couple of joins there before the engine goes in 🙂
  5. danny_galaga
    I give up on the oil hose. I'll just pay through the nose for the 'real deal'. I need to finish this stupid project before I set it on fire. Tired of all the road blocks...
  6. danny_galaga
    Another part to put on my list is the oil coolers, which are made by Setrab, an aftermarket company. They are sold in Australia too. Mine are standard Setrab sizes. Radiator probably is too, but I haven't looked at it yet. Another reason to keep a list is that there is always a chance that one day, that kit factory won't be around anymore. Obviously I hope they outlive my ownership of the plane 😄 . But if it comes to it, it would be nice to have this list for some of the spare parts I may need down the track.
  7. danny_galaga
    Just to keep people on their toes 😂 List updated. Thanks 👍
  8. danny_galaga
    I picked up the advice from this thread: https://www.recreationalflying.com/topic/28979-blowing-the-coolant-out-rotax-912-uls/ The BMW 650 has a Rotax motor coincidentally, which doesn't mean much. A friend has one, I might see if there is any info on his radiator cap, and compare to mine
  9. danny_galaga
    its a new aluminium oil line, so if I take that with me, I can let the experts measure it 🙂 edit: having said that, I see what you mean. I will compare the Rotax spigot with the ali oil line. Easy to take off that spigot, maybe ill take that as well...
  10. danny_galaga
    Thanks, just so happens I got to an impasse putting on an oil line. Manual says to use oil hose supplied with engine but of course I have a second hand engine without that bit of hose 😊 I'll try and make my way to hydraulink tomorrow and take my oil line with me for the correct size.
  11. danny_galaga
    And there it is DOE1026. Nissan 1400 lower. I wasn't expecting any further info on my hose since I have a retail supplier source now, but you've gone above and beyond. This seems to be the manufacturer 😊
  12. danny_galaga
    No, definitely for kit aircraft, having made to order parts would mostly be quite expensive. For example , radiator hoses 😉 Skippys Zephyr for instance used a Gemini radiator hose, and mine it would seem, a Datsun. Mine is not marked Nissan/Datsun so it's safe to assume it's not Nissan/Datsun OEM.
  13. danny_galaga
    I'm wondering if we are talking at cross purposes here. I thought I was clear. But a picture is worth a thousand words they say. The attached picture is a hose FROM MY KIT. if you google the part number on the label, you get to this car parts supplier https://www.modernautoparts.co.za Just to be one thousand per cent sure, you can type in the other part number on the label and you get the same hose. This, I am confident this is where my kit supplier (which is based in South Africa) gets their radiator hose from and therefore so can i. And I was also asking about any parts that people know are good for Rotax engines. Skippy has come through with a radiator cap and gates hoses. There is one other part I know of, not the engine itself but the regulator/rectifier. I believe it's common to use a Ducati version of some description. Anyone know a source for that? Sorry, no idea why that last bit is underlined. Hard to edit posts on this site 😸
  14. danny_galaga
    That's great, but I'm not talking about a copy engine. You've seen on another post somewhere that I would rather have a good 'on condition ' genuine Rotax than a new copy engine. I'm just wanting to add to my list of reputable parts sources for various bits on the Rotax, any other part of the plane, well I just wish I'd thought of googling the bits and pieces as they came to hand earlier 😄
  15. danny_galaga
    Yes, but if you want a hose for a Datsun 180B, that's what you ask for. I'm guessing particular types of Datsun were ubiquitous in South Africa, and so that part is common. Bit like the Peugeot 504, it is to Africa what Red Motor Holden's are to Australia. Anyway, don't get hung up on what the hose is for. What I'm saying is my kit manufacturer sourced it from the equivalent of Repco, and so I can too. On Rotax parts, skippy recommended a BMW radiator cap in a different thread. So that's now on my list. Skippy what is the Gates part number for the oil hoses? Edit: Datsun 1200 was popular in Sert Efrikah https://www.news24.com/news24/bi-archive/end-of-the-road-for-datsun-2022-4
  16. danny_galaga
    Very late in the build of my ultralight, Ive started a list of spare parts. That is, parts that the kit supplier has clearly sourced from elsewhere, so why not go straight to the source? What got me started was noticing the part number on the radiator hoses. I googled it and found it's a South African car parts store. Unfortunately I can't tell exactly what car from their description, just Datsun as far as I can tell. But at least means I can probably buy those hoses from them directly rather than the kit supplier. Also on my list now, compliments of a post from skippydiesel is the part number for a BMW radiator cap, same as Rotax but much cheaper. Talking of Rotax, who has any other suggestions for alternative bits and pieces for the 912? Must be definite. If not, I'd rather just get the Rotax part.
  17. danny_galaga
    Thanks. For some reason I couldn't see that the shielding was connected electrically to anything. But after your post, I found an old coax cable that happened to have BNC on both ends and proved to myself with a ohmmeter that the outer of the BNC is connected to the shielding and thus the earth is through that connector, no external connections required 🙂 Like I say, so obvious people would find it hard to tell what I'm asking 😂
  18. danny_galaga
    So this is probably such a dumb question you may not get what I'm asking- with your shielded wiring (head, mic etc), you piggy tail a wire on the shielding and hook it to the negative bus bar. Do you do the same with the aerial coax cable?
  19. danny_galaga
    It will allow up to 17 amps. Minus whatever is running. If you just have the radio going you'll get about 15amps to the battery which obviously drops as it charges.
  20. danny_galaga
    This is a motorcycle battery. I can fibreglass. I'm not modifying the kit, I need this done.
  21. danny_galaga
    Oh this is a sealed type so it won't have dried out. Has to be sealed because it sits on an angle in the Bushcat behind the instrument panel. In the nynja which the Bushcat is based off, it sits very handily on the floor. I might bitch about the location but as a sparky, I can see that this results in probably the shortest run for the starter cables, saving weight and giving more oomph. I'll never need to move it for C of G because I had to upgrade the empennage. This can only add to a rearward C of G in my mind. I might have to add a brick or two under the cowling if anything 😄
  22. danny_galaga
    Guys, I've taken too long already. I've decided to not deviate from the kit. I just need to get it in the air. It is in fact a wet cell. I'll be at the hangar next week. I'll check the voltage and put him on charge. You'd think I'd be able to tell YOU guys about batteries since I used to be an auto sparky 😄 But we'd basically put sulfuric acid in dry charged batteries and charge and install. Wouldn't really know what happens to the battery after that. If someone came in with a dicky battery, wed throw a carbon pile tester on it and check the charging etc. Good call on terminal protection though Rd guy . The one good thing about the location is that the terminals can't touch anything else in a crash. If they could, the plane would be so crumpled I'd be dead anyway, and the resultant fire will kill two burns with one stone with a cremation 😄
  23. danny_galaga
    I'm embarrassed to say that I've been building my plane so long that I now doubt the reliability of the battery. So the battery is at least four years old now, and I've charged it maybe two or three times. Thing is, it's in a pretty dumb location. Once I put the instrument panel on, it will be a real pain to get to. It's a pain now, but at least with the panel off I can see what I'm doing. Once the panel is on, the panel will probably never be coming off again. So, the battery is 'new' in so much as it hasn't done any work,but it's over four years old. Should I just play it safe and get a new new battery?
  24. danny_galaga
    Yes, they are definitely for novelty purposes only.
  25. danny_galaga
    R2010 it is then 🙂
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