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danny_galaga

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Everything posted by danny_galaga

  1. Simplest thing I can think of without mucking around with aerodynamic mods is to add an extra oil cooler inline with the existing one. Almost anywhere you mount it will add some extra cooling, even if on the firewall, unless of course it's right next to the exhaust 😄
  2. https://bydanjohnson.com/mosaic-ready-powerplant-brp-rotax-surprises-sun-n-fun-with-a-powerful-new-announcement/
  3. From this it implies Rotax themselves say 48 month shelf life https://www.rotax-owner.com/en/912-914-technical-questions/9671-912-fuel-pump-shelf-life?start=0
  4. Yes, that has crossed my mind, that the rubber might perish just sitting there. I will investigate. My garage is cooler than my house, so heat shouldn't be an issue
  5. Dunno if it helps, but at least some perspective from a different system - on the Bushcat, there is one small oil cooler above the radiator. Radiator is in much the same position as the CH701 as far as I can tell. Then another small oil cooler on top of the engine. The cowl ducts air straight to the cooler ( no hoses) and then straight out again, going over the windscreen.
  6. Looking forward to hearing more 🙂 I may buy one or two and store in my garage for the next five year replacement.
  7. Of course I've just gone and ordered a Rotax one 😂 But that part number goes in my list of spare parts now. Thanks for the info. Might buy one of these as well. How long have you run this one? Do you know if others are using them?
  8. It's what I'm getting at. Surely they can go to ten before replacing? If not, then surely a safer system would be better. Or at least the option.
  9. Are you replacing your gearbox every five years 😄
  10. So no one knows about the company I linked to in the first post? Or another like it?
  11. This is all true, but if you specifically talk about mechanical diaphragm fuel pumps, I've never heard of any car fuel pumps having to be replaced every five years. Were a y of the diaphragm pumps you replaced less than five years old? Or were they 30 year old EH utes etc? While it's true an aircraft ENGINE has a harder time of it than a car engine, I don't see that an aircraft FUEL PUMP is under that much more duress. And if so, then ditch the diaphragm, and go with a piston design (which I imagine was the Billet Pump solution) . They had tested theirs to 2500 hours, which is 500 more than the engine is supposed to go for. If non rubber diaphragm, you don't have the time constraint, just hours operated, like the rest of the engine. It did sound like the Billet Pump fuel pump was more expensive than a standard Rotax one, but since it was supposed to last longer than the engine, you would no longer have to worry about it. Look at it another way. You used to be able to rebuild fuel pumps. Not so the Rotax. Nice little earner for Rotax. Why sell you a $100 kit, when you can sell a whole pump?
  12. And yet the equivalent in an older car, in constant contact with the same fuel it would go decades. If it can last decades, I think replacing after ten years is more reasonable. Anyway, what's the point of the electric pump if you don't get to use it occasionally in an emergency 😄 In any case, my big question is, is there anything out there like that Billet Pump solution for Rotax? From what I can tell, there is no diaphragm to perish.
  13. I found a link to something that would have been a great replacement, but it seems to be a dead end. For whatever reason, they didn't catch on http://www.billetpump.com/ Is there anything else like this out there? For now, I've just ordered a genuine fuel pump, but it is a bit of a gyp isnt it, having to replace them every five years. In the automotive world, with their 'made by the million' specs, diaphragm fuel pumps easily lasted decades. It seems nonsense to me Rotax fuel pumps cant last at least ten years. Are they made by Ducati, like the regulator/rectifiers? 😄
  14. Latest item is the regulator/rectifier. I got a Carmo. Less wires and runs cooler. Made in the Netherlands. HUP HOLLAND! HUP! 🙂
  15. TRue, but still not really an item I need to put in my list of substitutes for OEM stuff. There's no specific call for that tape on my aircraft
  16. That's more of a toolbox thing, rather than replacing specific parts on my plane.
  17. I guess the best thing for fire protection is the ability to switch off the fuel
  18. Thanks, funny they dont just say 'speaker ground'. Manual says 8ohm speaker ok. Anyway,I hooked it all up today and it works 😊
  19. Yes, I had a look in the hangar. Couldn't check the tecnam. Had a look at a Foxbat and it had ultra professional you -beaut fancy crimped hoses. But looking around my hangar, I see a Rotax with absolutely nothing, and a Jabiru with fire sleeve but not finished properly at the ends. I think I'll just go with what's in the kit, which is insulation to stop the fuel getting hot and stop hoses rubbing. That'll do 🙂
  20. I've done a bit more snooping. Looks like BAND CLAMPS are the go https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/eatonclamps_900591B5C.php?clickkey=36097
  21. Im reading more about it now. I think I am raising more questions than I am finding answers for! In my kit, it comes with insulation for the fuel hose, but not fire sleeve. Was easy to see what to do with the insulation, but not so with the fire sleeve. I will have a look in the mechanics hangar tomorrow. Funny, how I've looked at the Tecnams engine bay a hundred times when doing the morning inspection, but I cant recall the specifics of the fire sleeving, other than its orangey and looks rough 😄
  22. Anyone got a ball park figure to do the fuel lines? Also, I see two sizes available - 14mm and 16mm. Reckon I should just get 16mm to cover my bases?
  23. Like I already mentioned, the nut and bolt shop didn't sell exhaust nuts. Full stop. But the exhaust shop down the road from them got me some 🙂.
  24. It's going on my list of spare parts 🙂
  25. Thanks, I don't need a diagram, was just puzzled by the use of the word 'analog'.
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