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danny_galaga

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Everything posted by danny_galaga

  1. I've been wondering about this. What sort of nickname? My plane is a Bushcat, can I register 'bushcat' ?
  2. Mine has been a ground plane for nearly four years. I am using a dipole antenna
  3. Kitplanes website has some articles too, worth having a search there: https://www.kitplanes.com/antenna-wiring/
  4. Oh yes. I'm on top of the negative return aspect. I misspoke earlier, I said I had shielded the ignition switches. I meant radio switch
  5. Thanks guys. What is the 'wiring best practices book'! For an aerial, I've read about these recently http://www.advancedaircraft.com/ At least one of the Bushcat guys uses one and is happy with it. No ground plane. Will copy his installation.
  6. Will answer my own question, at least partly 😄 First of all, my own radio operation manual has some advice. Also This looks like a good read: http://www.sullivanuv.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Aircraft-Wiring-Best-Practices.pdf
  7. I have yet to wire up my radio, headphone jacks and aerial. Actually I don't even have an aerial 😄 Looking at whether I need shielded wiring on ALL wires into the radio, and would they all need to be grounded? Is it a matter of 'this wire is a must to be grounded, but the more the merrier '? I've wired most of my panel. I've used shielded wire to the ignition switches. The shielding is grounded to the negative bus bar which is on the instrument panel.
  8. Also, pons assinorum 😃
  9. I doubt there would be any point having a co sensor in my plane. It's so drafty it would be like installing one in a tiger month 😄
  10. My point in posting that article was more about highlighting the pitfalls off buying fake stuff , especially where you rationalise about the origin (oh, it all comes from the same factory). I could have posted an article about fake USB memory. That's a popular one. The root is rewritten to make it show as a bigger size. So instead of say a 512gb memory stick, what you are actually getting is a 64gb rewritten to look like a 512. Your computer will show it as 512, but once it gets close to 64gb full you'll get an error message or disk is full message. Definitely don't buy USB sticks from eBay or Ali express 😉 Skippy, your links a good case in point. Get the cheaper CO detector, but from Quell or wherever, not from eBay or Ali express. Reputable suppliers have to submit their products for testing. That goes for USB chargers, clothes irons, lawn mowers or whatever. If you bypass that by going overseas, you don't know what you're getting. If it's failure is not dangerous (my fake tv remote for instance) it might be worth a gamble.
  11. You can die or at least get headaches from CO2 as well. Asphyxiation. So it could be useful in small, poorly ventilated spaces...
  12. You might be missing the point. In china you can get all sorts. When the big names set up a factory there, they SET UP A FACTORY there. Pretty much every single thing for the factory is brought in. If it's Apple (or back in the day - Atari) Apple or Atari bring in all American machinery. The exact same machinery that they used in America. Every robot, every lathe, every silicon chip makey thing. Even the wiring comes from the USA. Same if it's German or Japanese. It's the same product because it's a duplicate factory. But when someone in china sets out to make a knockoff of a well known product, it's going to be all sorts of ordinary. Sometimes it's worth a punt (I got a knock off remote for my ten year old Samsung telly. Looks the part, and works just like the original). But these knock off artists do riff on the fact that people imagine that because it's from China, it must be from the same factory. It's not. So if the function is critical, get it from a reputable source. Don't get an APLE charger. Go to the APPLE store and buy the real deal. If you want to replace your telly remote with the same, well that's worth a punt. At worst, you might have lost a few bucks, but at least it won't blow up your telly 🙂
  13. Yes I'll check them too. Have to get a capacitor from there anyway
  14. Yes, definitely a matter of not buying critical stuff from eBay or Ali express. If you get it from a reputable source, it's still going to be made in china but to an OEM or high standard. I think even my skyecho2 is made in china, but if I saw one for half the price on eBay or Ali, well I think I'd give it a miss 😄
  15. Ok then I'll pay Bunnings aerospace a visit for some star washers 🙂
  16. Yes, it's from Sert Efrika
  17. https://hackaday.com/2023/02/18/anatomy-of-a-fake-co2-sensor/
  18. Or lack thereof! I bought two brass bus bars for my instrument panel ages ago and noted a lack of washers. Figured I'd cross that bridge later. Well it's later 😄 I'm pretty sure when I was an auto electrician, bus bars would come with star washers. But maybe I could get away with Loctite? I was trying in earnest to keep as much steel as possible away from the panel because of the compass. But now I realise my engine VDO type engine instruments (Aviasport) have nice big steel brackets to hold them in place! So what would a few tiny zinc star washers matter? Thoughts?
  19. This seems such a pity. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/air-space-magazine/antonovs-in-america-3916822/
  20. "I'm making a habit of it" 😂 Nice to have those fields around. My kinda airfield. Glad he sorted it out 🙂
  21. It's looking good so far 🙂 I like that it looks 'sonex'. They aren't the prettiest, but the shape is part of the brand I think . And actually, being high wing improves the look
  22. I ended up getting a Lenovo m8. Some of my geeky friends recommended it as really good value for money. And googling around, I found at least one pilot using one. And air Norway or something use fancier Lenovo's exclusively for their EFG 😃 I live somewhere between Archerfield and Brisbane, so that's been handy for testing! @coljones VID_20230212_222710.mp4
  23. Yep, already wired the supplied pot remotely with a view to measuring and replacing with a fixed value. Great minds eh 😃 Cooling will be fine. It's why I bought a kit. I looked at how to work out what sized heat sink I would need and the maths didn't look fun 😄 Note that there are more caps than needed. The kit covers a few bases, including an LCD voltage meter. I left out what I KNEW I didn't need, and left in what I wasn't sure about. The fan was powered by a lm7812 to give it a constant 12v . Since I'm only feeding it 12v I just left it out and bridged it. Fan wails like a banshee though, I'm sure it doesn't need to be THAT fast! So might put in a 1-5 ohm resistor to take the edge off it...
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