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danny_galaga

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Everything posted by danny_galaga

  1. danny_galaga
    im confused now, did you want an oil cooler or a water radiator?
  2. danny_galaga
    Yeah, it doesn't matter how legit looking the site is, if the price less than half normal price you know something's fishy 🐟
  3. danny_galaga
    Couldn't find one in Australia for prices but here is a us dealer. No idea about this company but it lists the specs https://www.improvedracing.com/setrab-25-row-series-9-oil-cooler.html
  4. danny_galaga
    Just in case you need another and this one is the right size, this is for the Bushcat
  5. danny_galaga
    Oh, I was thinking you meant the wires go into the plug in different spots! Looking pretty good, just check it's for the same amperage alternator I guess. Looks like a few of us are having luck tracking down the exact same peripheral part that the engine maker uses. Same quality cos it's the same part, but at automotive prices instead of aircraft prices 🙂
  6. danny_galaga
    So it seems to me, and you can verify it against where the wires go from there that you have blue wires are rectifier, black and red are positive and negative and yellow and green, one will probably be warning light and maybe the other is ignition. But what would be interesting is to see that same angle on the regulator you are interested in. If the wire colours go in the same place that those do, it's almost 100 per cent going to be the same. If they don't, that doesn't mean all is lost, but would need further investigation.
  7. danny_galaga
    I guess the other thing to look at is if you can get another pic from the wire side. If all the different coloured wires all come out at the same spots then it's likely Jabiru just changed where they go on the plug. The two light blue wires look bigger. That is probably the rectifier
  8. danny_galaga
    If it's a regulator/rectifier then you may be able to test which wires are the diodes to narrow it down. Some multimeters have a diode tester
  9. danny_galaga
    It goes without saying...
  10. danny_galaga
    Definitely just go to an auto sparky with it. I've been out of the loop for a while but that is either a Denso or Hitachi automotive alternator. A good sized workshop will have some junk ones (always good to keep for bits and pieces like those bolts and various insulators). They'll sort you out with exactly the same parts.
  11. danny_galaga
    This is called an 'argument by selected instance'. Maybe Unilever had this one problem (do you have a source) but in general they seem to be doing exceptionally well with all their automated processes. Also, one could say that shouldn't all that automation bring the cost down of a Rotax? But better to ask what it would have cost without automation? I suspect substantially more.
  12. danny_galaga
    I would hope for safeties sake that when it's written off by the assessor, that it is immediately destroyed.
  13. danny_galaga
    Pretty sure it's only value now would be for scrap. Imagine how much time and effort it would take to fix this rather common plane. Insurance certainly wouldn't wear it...
  14. danny_galaga
    Great airmanship. I hope I can do as well if the time comes. And congratulations on channel for not calling it a crash landing.
  15. danny_galaga
    It will have what I want it to have- negative straight from the battery to the starter (least amount of resistance you can have for the highest current) and a negative lead from the battery to the negative bus bar on my instrument panel 🙂
  16. danny_galaga
    On the Rotax, they use a motorbike starter. The consequence being there are two superfluous lugs hanging off the back of the starter. Negative is going straight from the battery to one of those lugs 🙂
  17. danny_galaga
    What's the point? How long did that magneto go for? Like I say, I'll try not to put him.down in the sea 😄
  18. danny_galaga
    I'm not sure what you are driving at. Should we not have cables at all? I believe the Rotax is almost impossible to hand start 😄
  19. danny_galaga
    Or thousands more hours for anything that isn't Ducati or Harley 😀
  20. danny_galaga
    In the long run, which has higher servicing costs? What's the TBO for the Lycoming?
  21. danny_galaga
    If it's properly joined, crimp or solder, then it's sealed. You can only get the tiniest bit of corrosion around the edge of the lug. Not saying it won't happen. Most likely if it is getting wet, particularly sea water. Then you have a nice electrolyte in the equation. When I was an apprentice I remember going out to a job where another apprentice had put brass bolts on an aluminium hull. Owner wasn't best pleased and told the shop to come back and fix it. It got my curiosity. When I went home I put a piece of copper and a piece of aluminium into a glass of salty water and measured it. It was generating something like 0.6 (from memory) volts! That's pretty impressive. I have determined that I will try and keep my aircraft out of the ocean 😀
  22. danny_galaga
    Yes, I didn't even worry about getting the Rotax supplied regulator. Got a better one, and it even has less wires to worry about. Less is more as they say...
  23. danny_galaga
    I am dismayed that Rotax are using parts from the most fragile motorbikes on earth 😄
  24. danny_galaga
    I'll stick with that then 🙂
  25. danny_galaga
    So I learnt to fly in a Piper, and yes the standard procedure was to shut the mixture off . But now I've re-learnt to fly with RA-AUS, it seems with Rotax the standard way is just shut the ignition switches off. What are your thoughts on that? Does anyone shut down Rotax via fuel switch?
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