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danny_galaga

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Everything posted by danny_galaga

  1. danny_galaga
    It goes without saying...
  2. danny_galaga
    Definitely just go to an auto sparky with it. I've been out of the loop for a while but that is either a Denso or Hitachi automotive alternator. A good sized workshop will have some junk ones (always good to keep for bits and pieces like those bolts and various insulators). They'll sort you out with exactly the same parts.
  3. danny_galaga
    This is called an 'argument by selected instance'. Maybe Unilever had this one problem (do you have a source) but in general they seem to be doing exceptionally well with all their automated processes. Also, one could say that shouldn't all that automation bring the cost down of a Rotax? But better to ask what it would have cost without automation? I suspect substantially more.
  4. danny_galaga
    I would hope for safeties sake that when it's written off by the assessor, that it is immediately destroyed.
  5. danny_galaga
    Pretty sure it's only value now would be for scrap. Imagine how much time and effort it would take to fix this rather common plane. Insurance certainly wouldn't wear it...
  6. danny_galaga
    Great airmanship. I hope I can do as well if the time comes. And congratulations on channel for not calling it a crash landing.
  7. danny_galaga
    It will have what I want it to have- negative straight from the battery to the starter (least amount of resistance you can have for the highest current) and a negative lead from the battery to the negative bus bar on my instrument panel 🙂
  8. danny_galaga
    On the Rotax, they use a motorbike starter. The consequence being there are two superfluous lugs hanging off the back of the starter. Negative is going straight from the battery to one of those lugs 🙂
  9. danny_galaga
    What's the point? How long did that magneto go for? Like I say, I'll try not to put him.down in the sea 😄
  10. danny_galaga
    I'm not sure what you are driving at. Should we not have cables at all? I believe the Rotax is almost impossible to hand start 😄
  11. danny_galaga
    Or thousands more hours for anything that isn't Ducati or Harley 😀
  12. danny_galaga
    In the long run, which has higher servicing costs? What's the TBO for the Lycoming?
  13. danny_galaga
    If it's properly joined, crimp or solder, then it's sealed. You can only get the tiniest bit of corrosion around the edge of the lug. Not saying it won't happen. Most likely if it is getting wet, particularly sea water. Then you have a nice electrolyte in the equation. When I was an apprentice I remember going out to a job where another apprentice had put brass bolts on an aluminium hull. Owner wasn't best pleased and told the shop to come back and fix it. It got my curiosity. When I went home I put a piece of copper and a piece of aluminium into a glass of salty water and measured it. It was generating something like 0.6 (from memory) volts! That's pretty impressive. I have determined that I will try and keep my aircraft out of the ocean 😀
  14. danny_galaga
    Yes, I didn't even worry about getting the Rotax supplied regulator. Got a better one, and it even has less wires to worry about. Less is more as they say...
  15. danny_galaga
    I am dismayed that Rotax are using parts from the most fragile motorbikes on earth 😄
  16. danny_galaga
    I'll stick with that then 🙂
  17. danny_galaga
    So I learnt to fly in a Piper, and yes the standard procedure was to shut the mixture off . But now I've re-learnt to fly with RA-AUS, it seems with Rotax the standard way is just shut the ignition switches off. What are your thoughts on that? Does anyone shut down Rotax via fuel switch?
  18. danny_galaga
  19. danny_galaga
    Don't forget I used to be an auto electrician, so I will definitely observe those things 🙂
  20. danny_galaga
    Case closed. I was curious if anyone was using automotive cable. Turns out some people are. So will I 🙂
  21. danny_galaga
    Without looking it up, I wouldn't be surprised if it's to do with fatigue. Aluminium wire I reckon would crack easier than copper. I feel it would have less flex I had no idea it was being used for starter motor cables though 😲
  22. danny_galaga
    That's getting a bit academic. I'm not building a 11kv transmission tower! Everyone uses copper cables for starter motors. so will I. Lucas sometimes used aluminium for field windings in their starters. The copper tag of the brushes were spot welded on. If you had to replace them, normally you would cut off the brush, leaving a bit of the copper tag behind. Then bind the new brush on with a single stand of copper wire and solder. One place I worked at did a lot of vintage stuff, and someone had a roll of 'aluminium' solder. Not sure what it was made from. Apparently unobtainium, because you couldn't buy it anymore. But it could solder copper to aluminium! I never used it though.
  23. danny_galaga
    When you say some manufacturers, do you mean aircraft manufacturers? It's certainly best to keep the lead as short as possible. You need cable going to a starter motor. It needs to be flexible.
  24. danny_galaga
    Fully agree. We always soldered our cables with gas. The flux was a paste from memory.
  25. danny_galaga
    Particularly the 'motorbike sized' starters like Rotax and Jabiru. Just curious. Would be much easier to set up with automotive than tefzel. You can get pre-made lengths easily enough. Obviously a drawback is it would be more likely to create smoke in a dead short situation. My thought is that with an isolator, it shouldn't be a problem. The run is quite short in my plane too, which also reduces the risk of a short.
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