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danny_galaga

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Everything posted by danny_galaga

  1. danny_galaga
    It will allow up to 17 amps. Minus whatever is running. If you just have the radio going you'll get about 15amps to the battery which obviously drops as it charges.
  2. danny_galaga
    This is a motorcycle battery. I can fibreglass. I'm not modifying the kit, I need this done.
  3. danny_galaga
    Oh this is a sealed type so it won't have dried out. Has to be sealed because it sits on an angle in the Bushcat behind the instrument panel. In the nynja which the Bushcat is based off, it sits very handily on the floor. I might bitch about the location but as a sparky, I can see that this results in probably the shortest run for the starter cables, saving weight and giving more oomph. I'll never need to move it for C of G because I had to upgrade the empennage. This can only add to a rearward C of G in my mind. I might have to add a brick or two under the cowling if anything 😄
  4. danny_galaga
    Guys, I've taken too long already. I've decided to not deviate from the kit. I just need to get it in the air. It is in fact a wet cell. I'll be at the hangar next week. I'll check the voltage and put him on charge. You'd think I'd be able to tell YOU guys about batteries since I used to be an auto sparky 😄 But we'd basically put sulfuric acid in dry charged batteries and charge and install. Wouldn't really know what happens to the battery after that. If someone came in with a dicky battery, wed throw a carbon pile tester on it and check the charging etc. Good call on terminal protection though Rd guy . The one good thing about the location is that the terminals can't touch anything else in a crash. If they could, the plane would be so crumpled I'd be dead anyway, and the resultant fire will kill two burns with one stone with a cremation 😄
  5. danny_galaga
    I'm embarrassed to say that I've been building my plane so long that I now doubt the reliability of the battery. So the battery is at least four years old now, and I've charged it maybe two or three times. Thing is, it's in a pretty dumb location. Once I put the instrument panel on, it will be a real pain to get to. It's a pain now, but at least with the panel off I can see what I'm doing. Once the panel is on, the panel will probably never be coming off again. So, the battery is 'new' in so much as it hasn't done any work,but it's over four years old. Should I just play it safe and get a new new battery?
  6. danny_galaga
    Yes, they are definitely for novelty purposes only.
  7. danny_galaga
    R2010 it is then 🙂
  8. danny_galaga
    I've been wondering about this. What sort of nickname? My plane is a Bushcat, can I register 'bushcat' ?
  9. danny_galaga
    Mine has been a ground plane for nearly four years. I am using a dipole antenna
  10. danny_galaga
    Kitplanes website has some articles too, worth having a search there: https://www.kitplanes.com/antenna-wiring/
  11. danny_galaga
    Oh yes. I'm on top of the negative return aspect. I misspoke earlier, I said I had shielded the ignition switches. I meant radio switch
  12. danny_galaga
    Thanks guys. What is the 'wiring best practices book'! For an aerial, I've read about these recently http://www.advancedaircraft.com/ At least one of the Bushcat guys uses one and is happy with it. No ground plane. Will copy his installation.
  13. danny_galaga
    Will answer my own question, at least partly 😄 First of all, my own radio operation manual has some advice. Also This looks like a good read: http://www.sullivanuv.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Aircraft-Wiring-Best-Practices.pdf
  14. danny_galaga
    I have yet to wire up my radio, headphone jacks and aerial. Actually I don't even have an aerial 😄 Looking at whether I need shielded wiring on ALL wires into the radio, and would they all need to be grounded? Is it a matter of 'this wire is a must to be grounded, but the more the merrier '? I've wired most of my panel. I've used shielded wire to the ignition switches. The shielding is grounded to the negative bus bar which is on the instrument panel.
  15. danny_galaga
    Also, pons assinorum 😃
  16. danny_galaga
    I doubt there would be any point having a co sensor in my plane. It's so drafty it would be like installing one in a tiger month 😄
  17. danny_galaga
    My point in posting that article was more about highlighting the pitfalls off buying fake stuff , especially where you rationalise about the origin (oh, it all comes from the same factory). I could have posted an article about fake USB memory. That's a popular one. The root is rewritten to make it show as a bigger size. So instead of say a 512gb memory stick, what you are actually getting is a 64gb rewritten to look like a 512. Your computer will show it as 512, but once it gets close to 64gb full you'll get an error message or disk is full message. Definitely don't buy USB sticks from eBay or Ali express 😉 Skippy, your links a good case in point. Get the cheaper CO detector, but from Quell or wherever, not from eBay or Ali express. Reputable suppliers have to submit their products for testing. That goes for USB chargers, clothes irons, lawn mowers or whatever. If you bypass that by going overseas, you don't know what you're getting. If it's failure is not dangerous (my fake tv remote for instance) it might be worth a gamble.
  18. danny_galaga
    You can die or at least get headaches from CO2 as well. Asphyxiation. So it could be useful in small, poorly ventilated spaces...
  19. danny_galaga
  20. danny_galaga
    You might be missing the point. In china you can get all sorts. When the big names set up a factory there, they SET UP A FACTORY there. Pretty much every single thing for the factory is brought in. If it's Apple (or back in the day - Atari) Apple or Atari bring in all American machinery. The exact same machinery that they used in America. Every robot, every lathe, every silicon chip makey thing. Even the wiring comes from the USA. Same if it's German or Japanese. It's the same product because it's a duplicate factory. But when someone in china sets out to make a knockoff of a well known product, it's going to be all sorts of ordinary. Sometimes it's worth a punt (I got a knock off remote for my ten year old Samsung telly. Looks the part, and works just like the original). But these knock off artists do riff on the fact that people imagine that because it's from China, it must be from the same factory. It's not. So if the function is critical, get it from a reputable source. Don't get an APLE charger. Go to the APPLE store and buy the real deal. If you want to replace your telly remote with the same, well that's worth a punt. At worst, you might have lost a few bucks, but at least it won't blow up your telly 🙂
  21. danny_galaga
    Detecting CO2?
  22. danny_galaga
    Yes I'll check them too. Have to get a capacitor from there anyway
  23. danny_galaga
    Yes, definitely a matter of not buying critical stuff from eBay or Ali express. If you get it from a reputable source, it's still going to be made in china but to an OEM or high standard. I think even my skyecho2 is made in china, but if I saw one for half the price on eBay or Ali, well I think I'd give it a miss 😄
  24. danny_galaga
    Ok then I'll pay Bunnings aerospace a visit for some star washers 🙂
  25. danny_galaga
    Yes, it's from Sert Efrika
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