Mike Welsh PA22

We found the problem. The filler cap on the master cylinder was leaking. Our LAME nailed it with a new brass tapered fitting into the cylinder and the filler cap into that. Bingo. Brakes are now rock solid at 1800rpm! All the rabbits we followed down burrows were interesting, but all wrong. It is such a simple system it had to be a simple answer. Thanks for all the input people.

Thanks Kas and others. I'll chase up Geoff Williams. Will keep you posted on the progress.

Better than chocks, I've found a slight uphill part of the taxi way to do the run up. On your own, getting in and running up, then shutting down, removing the chocks and getting in again, is just a little tedious! But good suggestion. Thanks.

Thanks OME. You are confirming my suspicions. I'll take them off and get them machined and matched. Makes me wonder how you are supposed to do a mag check at 1,800 rpm as per the Owners Handbook if the brakes were never good enough to hold it.

Thanks for those suggestions. It has just had 100 hourly and brakes have been bleed and adjusted. It is the original lever and cable mechanism connected to master cylinder under the seat. I have priced the Cleveland disc brake option at around $4,500AU fitted, but that is only for wheels and discs and STC but I would like to see if there is a way to get the originals to work before spending that much money. There is a high spot on each drum but I haven't had them off to inspect yet. The adjustment goes from a touch on the high spot to full lock in a whisker. It was a ground up restoration in 2006 and very well built so I assume it is in good order internally. It won't hold on run up over 1,500 rpm. I was hoping someone might have had the same issue?

l recently bought into a PA22 Colt and am looking for answers on the standard drum brake system. Specifically how to get them to work! Even with fine adjustment they only vaguely work. Does machining and matching the drums and shoes work?