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Don J

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Everything posted by Don J

  1. Don J
    Looks great Teggles. It's a shame that all that gets hidden under plywood. Don't forget those hinge blocks on the inside of spar and I also mounted T-nuts before final ply was added. 1mm ply is tougher than I thought it would be to wrap around the leading edge but some soaking in hot water and a heavy 2" pipe worked wonders. Keep at it friend and keep us posted.
  2. Don J
    Not sure of the reason either but I would guess it may have something to do with the length of the root spars option regarding placement of Main landing gear mounts. You can mount at root spar or wing root.
  3. Don J
    Believe me Teggles with your fuel capacity and with the lower hp a shorter wing will not be liked. Now if you put a 0200 on it with shorter wings, we may find a spot at Reno air races going fast and turning left.😉
  4. Don J
    Page 2 you will see the access holes are for the ability to get to the hinge bolts of the elevator and rudder hinges the tail wheel is a stock Scott full swivel type and activated by rudder horn.
  5. Don J
    The top rudder hinge would be an easy transfer of holes to the VS you do have two bolts holding the hinge half on? Are you going tail skid or wheel? I used self-locking tee-nuts on the inside of my VS and HS along with elevator spar to ease in mounting and un-mounting of controls. then left enough thread to pass t-nut to add a ny-locking nut for further safety. Access holes had to be incorporated to pass a wrench inside to hold nuts and fabric patches will cover them for future access. How is the cable routing going? Hope all is well and happy flying Teggles.
  6. Don J
    What is the plan on mounting the vertical Stab to the tail post? Are you going to use the hinge bolts? Don't forget those balsa strips that go on the leading edge of the rudder spar and elevator before fabric. Just think my friend only a few hundred things to do.🤪 Keep at it and keep use posted. DJ
  7. Don J
    Rudder cables probably won't be too bad but depending on where elevator cables fair leads are positioned that may be a headache. Do you have support blocks on Horizontal Stab and rudder post at hinge locations? Also don't forget Sheet 2 of prints section C-C showing the balsa in center of spars under the fabric I almost forgot those, and gap would have been terrible. And keep in mind you need room for hinge pins to come out at least one side by the balsa on center of spars.👌
  8. Don J
    Teggs. What about those rudder and elevator cables any head way. Diehl wings from a KR-2 is the way to go. Nice taper and lots of aileron.
  9. Don J
    As you can see in the photo, I took high density foam and stacked glued it into the inside of fin with the hopes it will help keep the cockpit accessible if plane is on its back. I believe a roll bar just behind the head mounted in the hard point of seat belt will be incorporated in my build also. With these two added safety features in a nose over in dirt or mud your chances are 2-x better to get out of the plane. Plus, no need for ply covering the fin if made solid with foam and med fabric.
  10. Don J
    Good luck on the laser method. I found the best result was to use feel of hand after I got the hinges as close as laser would allow, and it seems every time I had to remove the pins to work on the controls after reinstalled things always needed readjusted in hinge alignment. In other words, Tegg the hinges are a pain in the ass to say it politely.🫢 Do you have your vertical Stabilizer built yet? The reason I ask is the VS can be built to help in roll over protection as I did mine. Don
  11. Don J
    Tegg. Sun does help💡 and I hope you have your hinges worked out. It took some time to get mine aligned. It helped having a 5 ft. long 3/16" metal dowl. I guess you are going per plans on hinges. I found it helps a lot to build a rotisserie to hold each end of the fuselage where you can rotate it 360 degrees especially during covering with fabric. Looking good friend keep at it. Don
  12. Don J
    As always things are going slow, I look forward to winter because gives me more time to focus on the build. Undercarriage is a matter of money and finding the right deal on Grove type main gear because much lighter than stock I do have tires, wheels and brakes. I don't want to expose my fuselage to outside weather until body is completely covered in fabric and Poly spray has been done even sunlight can cause problems with the plywood and paint. I did manage too temporarily insert root spars to get the root fairings built and that was a technical mission of its own. I'm working on fuel primer location and a few other cockpit goodies needing mounting. A plasma cutter and good drill press will do a good job on fittings but there is always filing and sanding needed also. Don JOIP (1).jfif
  13. Don J
    Teggles I can relate to a small work area as you can see in my post. I was able to do all fuselage work in the basement but could not secure the root spars because of limited space to remove from basement. What metal parts are you in need of? I do have an extra set of wing attach fittings from a KR-2 and they are the same as a Taylor monoplane per prints. Let me know if I can assist in any way. Don
  14. Don J

    Not a kit-built plane. Every piece has to be built by the builder so takes very long time to get in the air. Nearing completion.

  15. Don J
    Teggles go to page one of this thread, and you can see picture of mounts dated April 11th 2018 and a few further down.
  16. Don J
    I did not like the way the mounting for the Hoz. stab is per plans. Doing it the way did I can adjust AOA incidence if desired. A 1600cc or 1835 cc Vw will get you about 50-55 hp and to run that RPM prolonged can and does ruin the heads near the valves. You could ask around and see if someone has some WAF(wing attach fittings) from a KR-2 for sale. There was a time you could buy WAF's from NVaero. th (1).jfif
  17. Don J
    Just a short note on my build for future builders. After the ply is secured to the fuselage, I had inspection holes needed to be cut in for tail group access along with inspection openings for the fairleads about halfway from seat back to Virt. stab. Also don't forget access to rudder pedals if so desired. I did a couple test holes in scrap ply and got a good fit with covers. "BUT" I didn't think about the distance the fabric would take up once covered reaching all the way to the back side of the ply. A person probably wouldn't think it would matter but it does. Luckly, I caught it with my test piece and had to do some dermal sanding on 2 holes yet not covered. I wiped the relief from my brow thanking that I did not have to correct a mess. I used mainly recessed inspection plates with 2 domed inspection plates at 1/2-way point behind seat back because I was able to aid in securing with screw in the center to help from slippage. No inspection rings were needed as wing fabric will require. Off to work I go 🤪
  18. Don J
    Teggles. No mention on wings and landing gear? When you open root spar holes, I would pilot drill from inside the fuselage outward because it makes for much less sanding and fitting. Cable routing will be a challenge due to ply already added on turtle deck but is doable. I guess you're getting ready to cut in inspection plate holes before covering with fabric ? What engine are you going to mount ? Post progress when you can I'd like to see how things are coming along. Don
  19. Don J
    That would not be a problem. I have a stock Cassette cowling to be fitted and has plenty of eyebrow openings much like the rudder, rather large😄Also I think their engine is a water-cooled Can Am
  20. Don J
    I contacted Chip with Aeromarine and he informs me that shipping and suppling to builders in Australia is no problem and has been done before.
  21. Don J
    BrendAn. Not sure of dealer in Australia but here is some info that may help. Email- INFO@AEROMARINE,COM or better yet call Chip Erwin at 262-408-0124 or email him directly at [email protected]. and if all else fails mail the company a letter at Aeromarine-LSA 1960 Fruitridge St. Brandon, FL. 33510 Here is a few pictures from the web site. I believe price for complete firewall forward package is around $7,600 US dollars includes prop.
  22. Don J
    I agree with you Marty-d and have no plans on doing mine that way but had to ask. 🛩️
  23. Don J
    One last thought and question for you guys. I have the ability to build the first tri gear (nose gear) T-mono plane with V-twin engine ever. would that be too much of an eye sore or the cat's meow for low time pilot's and first-time home builders??
  24. Don J
    No pictures Jon other than what is in the build log. Its Poly spray silver from firewall back and wings are in build stage. I found Blogging every day on my build with pictures really cut into my build progress and I don't have any help other than my wife when I need four hands. At this moment all the tail feathers are off, and the airframe is stripped of all accessories from dash to interior even the tail wheel is unbolted for painting so not much to see other than a pile of parts. I will post finished pictures' hopefully by mid-winter. Don
  25. Don J
    I think a phone card would be helpful along with toilet paper and some ear plugs. Anything to help the pilot and friends to get through the day such as hats and warm hoodies.
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