Don J

It's been a year since I've posted on my project and I'm in the engine stage of the build. I have been researching the V-Twin engine of 60 hp instead of the heavy VW. The Aeromarine V-twin has fuel injection and electric start and may be a good first time for the Taylor mono with this type of engine. Not too much done and much more to complete but I have been having a great time building this tiny little bird. Smooth air everyone. Don J

If anyone has a set of landing gear for a Taylor-monoplane and would like to sell please give me a message. Thanks Don

Just started on this step of the build and need to do a test block of balsa to see how the Aeropoxy glue is going to sand. T-88 epoxy is a bear to shape when connecting balsa together.

I want to point out a couple of steps and items I believe will help others on their build. As you can see from pictures of last post that the fuselage ply at the base of the spars is missing, and this could be avoided by not trying to cut openings before gluing the ply down. Better to pilot drill four small holes from inside of cockpit spar opening then connecting the lines and cut out with Dremel tool and block sand until satisfied with opening fit of spar. As you can see in the picture the fairing needed between the root rib and fuselage side which will cover the area of spar base missing ply, but I will have an extra amount of unwanted glue and weight that could have been avoided. The pile of hardware and parts is a photo of the many things you will have to install and then remove usually many times before your mission is complete.

Testing photo. Here is some pictures of fuselage work just before root ply rib being worked on and cable routing being cut out. There is a total of 14 separate ply panels 7 down each side once total fuselage is sheeted. As the thickness of the ply digresses filler base strip must be glued on to area were ply panel gets glued down to assure fuselage side has the same plain and no noticeable steps are seen. the final ply at trailing end will have inspection doors installed.

Hi guys I have been without a good computer for a while but finally upgraded my equipment so soon I will get some new pictures posted. I would like to share the news that trying to glue on a full piece of ply on side of fuselage from fire wall to seat back was not doable for me. I ended up mounting 6 separate ply panels to each side of fuselage to hold good shape and have the strength I felt needed for the plane. I did increase ply thickness from fire wall to seat back from 2 mm to 5 mm then reduced thickness as I moved towards the tail. Like I say as soon as I figure out my new computer and how to enclose pictures, I will post some photos. Sad to say the bird isn't flying yet but I will say I'm still enjoying the build very much and it is very hard for me to keep a true accurate account of total time on build. Hope to see and hear from you all soon. Don

Forgot to mention I did get the tail group in Poly Brush tho the picture is bad.

Just a fast hello and to let you all know the build is progressing very well. I've been working on wing spars along with many other areas and trying to go to an air show to see builds when I can. When I built this Trike with 1600 VW engine I did some Bob Hoovers build mods mainly in oil passage to test performance and temperature change. As I build the 1835 VW engine for the plane the work I did on the Trike engine Has given me much confidence on the aircraft power plant.Keeping the plane light and strong is still number one goal for me but too soon for a empty weight yet but I will guess around 460 - 490 pound ready to fly. I hope every one is well and getting some stick and rudder time. Don J

Well my friends I nearly have all the interior work done on the plane as far as cables and other hard to reach areas. Pictures are of the fuselage ply being fitted and made ready for gluing. I had a nice piece of 5/32 inch ply to reach from FW to seat back with a 30degree tapper cut. from that point aft I will go 2 mm for 4 ft. then finish off with 1.5 mm ply at tail area. Turtle deck will be covered with 2 mm but with a removable panel over the last 2 turtle deck bulkheads for access to hardware for elevator cables. I estimate a weight gain of 2 pounds with the ply sizes being used but will have a much greater strength with the 5/32 ply in forward area and much less ripple in the ply. Build is going well and I enjoy everyday spending time on it. Root spars will be shortened 10 inches on each side and will leave approx. 10" wing walk for entry of cockpit and main gear will be mounted in wing root.

I finished the cable guides for my rudder as discussed in prior post and added a couple of pictures. I must say it was well worth the effort because cables run very smooth and their protected well in cockpit area. To save weight I could remove some of the tubing between mounting plates but then I have twice the possibility of cable wear on the tubing and more area to keep and eye on. Added 2 screws on each ply mounting plate for backup strength tho not needed it makes me feel better.

Thank you Marty_d I appreciate your support it really makes sharing my build with others enjoyable.

I decided to make the cable routing of my rudder cables a bit different then the prints called for. I made 12- 1/8 "ply mounting brackets to glue to the up rights to hold 1/4" copper tubing in seat area and a 2" piece about half way to the tail . the tubing has a 3/16" ID hole and cables slides smoothly inside and all pieces are accessible by inspection plates or removing the sling seat. The reason my wood is dark in most areas Is because I seal the wood with a light coat of walnut colored stain for I can sand in areas that need something glued to it and see when I'm back to natural wood color then when finished I clear coat everything with polyurethane. Build is moving along slow but steady and still having fun.

I want to share with you all my elevator cable routing and the use of stock KR-2 fittings and pulleys. the pictures show the control stick in place but not locked down tight for ease of work and one is of the duel pulleys at the rear spar and the final picture is of the duel pulley behind the rear spar behind seat bulkhead. In order to get full deflection of right aileron with out cable rub I needed to take the top cable and move it to the right side of stick center and the bottom cable to the left side of stick center (approx 3/8 inch). This is needed because the cables cross over from the stick to the first set of pulleys. A builder must try to keep cable off set degree to and from the pulleys at the very minimum lets say 5 degree max. In this set up the only deflection is from stick to first pulleys and with cables mounted to the stick on center you will have cable rub as soon as right aileron command is given with out the off set of mounting points.I did move one turnbuckle from stick and put it on top of the Horz stabilizer were the cable hooks to the elevator control horn beings the fin is removable. My thought is ease of inspection and less chance of interference of cable movement in rough air or rough ground use. All inspection and maintenance of pulleys and turnbuckles are very easy to reach and service. The routing pulley for elevator just in front of the vertical stabilizer will have its own inspection panel or ring installed once fuselage is covered in plywood. Build is going great and I'm having a good time with it and elevator cable runs smooth and with no binding felt. Don J

Got all the parts hanging and moving smoothly and dealing with cables. Soon will be able to cover fuselage with plywood but don't want to speak too soon because it seams like something always comes up to put the brakes on the next step.

Facthunter: I would say the separation would appear at the leading edge of the p-tape on the trailing edge due to prop blast and rocks from the prop. I will address gap seal if needed once ground and flight testing is under way. I did get the Elevator p-taped and went with 1-1/2 inch tape for more coverage on the stitches.

I got a photo of the pinking tape done on the rudder. A note to all builders I started all my pinking tape at the trailing edge and worked my way forward and this kept the airflow over the control surfaces much like shingles on a roof protecting from rain. In my opinion the weakest area is the pinking tape at the trailing edge and probably the greatest chance for slipstream to lift Pinking tape.

Hello from North Dakota every one. I got the controls covered and stitched with out a single knot showing and I'm here to tell my story. I did a typical square knot with a half hitch on both sides of the knot then passed my empty needle back through the hole and threaded one side of the thread beside the knot into the needle and was able to pull the knot through the hole and hide the knot. This was a time consuming process but I was able to test each knot for holding strength. Beings the aircraft is Experimental I used outdoor 3M brand double adhesive tape used for window heat shrink film to reinforce the fabric at stitch location. You do have to remove the paper covering once tape is in location but a needle did good in that mission. I only reinforced the fabric in the area of the stitch to save on weight. I'm very happy with the finished product of the control surfaces. So glad winter is here for me because of the more time dedicated to my build. Now to get the pinking tape over the stitches and get them sprayed with Poly Fiber products

i just remembered the more Ply you get on the fuselage the harder it is to reach all them little things you worked on earlier. Was able to hide all those knots and is going good. I hope your all well and building your craft.

Don't know if I ever got this picture out there? Shows rudder pulley's and some other details Got to get all that right before ply and covering and hope it's right. Root spars and ply are in my line of fire.☺️

This is the horz. stab with ply on and covered with fabric. Poly brush is next step for it. in past photos you can see how the tip leading edge was hollow and after foam and two layers of fabric the lines filled in good. glue lines are approximately where the ribs are. Glad no rib stitching needed for this part.

Just a fast update to let you all know the build is still moving along. I'm in the stage of adding plywood to the outside of the fuselage and doing wind screen and cockpit interior. got header fuel tank in place and working on a 7 gallon belly tank to extend range. Poly fiber system for covering has worked well on the control surfaces. hope you all are doing well and safe. Don

Spruce was used then painted with a dark wood sealer

Got the Horz Stab covered with ply and added access holes at all hinges and mount brackets. these will be covered with fabric and with hopes to never have to use them but there if needed. I installed TEE nuts to mount hinges and brackets but also backed them with nylon lock nuts so an opening was needed to fit wrench in if repairs where ever required. The picture of all the stuff piled on the table is actually a creative way I weighed down the ply on HZ for gluing (If there is a will there is a way) Got the tabs welded to header tank also. Yep still having fun but that leading edge was a trick on the hz very hard to NOT get waves at seams as seen by sanding

I have a question for the Forum. My Horz stab is covered with 1 mm ply and also covered with fabric on the ply. In the prints I see no mention of rib stitching fabric anywhere to the 9 ribs inside the H stab. The 1 mm ply is very thin and very simple to get stitches through it and the fabric. My question is do builders of the T-mono add stitches with 2.5"-3" spacing in this area beings it's in the prop blast at all times ? or is the weight gain of pinked tape and reinforcing tape along with stitch itself add up to much?? I cut two starter pieces of ply today for the Horz stab to start with bottom