Don J

A bit done today. A couple shots of elevator getting covered. 42 stitches on elevator and 23 on rudder at 2-1/2" spacing.

facthunter. Great advise. I'm using Poly Fiber covering system so the pink color of the VS is the first coat of Poly brush.

Well guys the covering is going on well but just my bad luck I ran out of Poly tak glue so rudder is on hold for finish work. I did take the time and add the fabric dowels on the leading edge of the Elevator so it's ready to cover when glue rolls in this week. Yep I'm still having a blast but ran into a bad order of ply for the Fuselage. I bought 3 -24"x 48" 2 mm and 3- 24"x 48" 1 mm and during shipping by UPS the corner of the box got hit or dropped and broke all 6 pieces in one corner . Good news is Aircraft spruce re- sent new ones right away

I got the V- stab covered and getting rudder ready for fabric.

Still working away on the plane. I took the vertical Stab and laminated foam inside to help in roll over protection and give a good surface to glue or fiberglass to yet to do final sanding. Tail group is done other then plying the Horz. stab but all controls work well. Covid-19 has caused some material ordering issues but seams to be getting better. Just checking in and keeping every one posted. Don

I thought I'd take a moment and go over the changes I made to the tail area of my Taylor mono and pictures of most should be in the thread. 1. I changed the tail skid to a full swivel Maule gear 2. Installed 2 pulleys for better routing for rudder cables exiting the Fus. 3. mounted a pulley in front of Vertical Stab to run elevator cable. 4. Mounted Ash blocks between longerons at attachment points for HZ stab and on front holes inserted 3/16 SS dowels In forward holes. Dowel goes from starboard to port side and the aft dowels are 2" in length to allow slot for elevator horn to rotate. The other 4 holes I added 1-1/4" brass counter sunk flat head screws and all 8 fasteners will be capped with 1.5 mm ply per plans. 5. I mounted the HZ stab down to the blocks with 4 aircraft grade aluminum angels 2 per front spar with 4 AN bolts and 2 brass screws in front spar and 2 AN bolts and 2 screws in rear spar mounting angels. This made for adjustment of incidence for the Horz stab +/- 6. 7 hinges were built from Aluminum much like the KR-2 and all nuts that are unreachable from outside of plane have been fitted with self locking Tee nuts epoxied in place and hinges have a drilled head for safety pins incorporated in to the hinge half's to assure they can't back out. The bottom rudder horn/hinge nuts are reachable from the out side of plane and through inspection plate under Horz stab per plans. Pictures are of SS dowels and brass screws and pulleys prier to plywood covering of that area. and the messed up blanket is were I rest and watch TV when I take a break. Wife did say I should have moved the blanky.OH well.

Hey fellas. After many many times of removal and re-installing of the tail group I can say the Horz stab is ready for its plywood and the elevator is ready for fabric and all bolts for hinges are removable with out any cutting or recovering All ideas I added from my KR-2 parts has made for a very strong tail group and the hinges run real smooth. With elevator at neutral position and rudder full left or right I have 1-1/4" clearance at closest point to rudder. The mounting for the HORZ stab worked out very well and I can adjust easily +/- 3 or 4 degrees if needed. Next off I will tackle the covering of the vertical Stab and I plan on using the wood frame and putting aircraft grade foam in the interior and sand to shape and fiber glass with a few passes of cloth mainly because of the ease that way compared to trying to get the ply wood to conform to my fins shape that and my wings will be of the Diehl wings of the KR-2 family. I hope you are all doing well

I decided to open a 1-3/4" hole on each side of the base of rudder to make reaching the control horn bolts more easily. This was done with a hand drill and a hole saw bit and does not impair the integrity of the ply. earlier in this thread I spoke of a larger hole in internal brace to allow an extension for socket to fit to hold the two nuts but found it is just one of two ways of handling this hard to reach area. Thought I'd better share this with the Forum. And we at home are doing fine as is the build . I also did a hand drawing of my way of assuring the single bolts holding the hinge half's on elevator side will not back out during time. The holes at the base of rudder can be plugged in a number of ways or just left open and have fabric seal the opening but is a great way to monitor moisture in the inside bottom of rudder if removable plugs are incorporated into the build.

This picture is of the Horz.stab with all hinges in place and the control arm for elevator installed. I'm getting 34 degrees up elevator and 28 degrees down and prints call for 25 degrees up/down so very satisfied with movement. Rudder ask for 30 degrees left /right and I'm getting 33 degrees so mods on control arms from the KR-2 is a easy task by using router and some sanding and file work next to add ply to HZ. I guess it's something to do during this terrible Covid-19 mess we all are in. Over 240.000 have passed in the USA as of November 06. You all stay safe. Don J

I wanted to post a picture of the modifications I did to the stock KR-2 control horns for elevator and rudder of the Taylor-monoplane. The bottom horn in picture is shaped to allow forward and aft movement for the elevator and top fitting is slightly modified for full movement of rudder left and right and has a safety angle mounted to tail post to help protect wood if cable lock sleeves slip. Horz.stab rear spar will have same type of safety feature installed. a little work each day. Don

Hello members. Though building has been going slow mainly due to the difficulty of getting material shipped in I'm still plugging away at the build these photos are of the fuel header tank getting ready for mounting. and the small modification done to instrument box for tank fit. I've been practicing with the Poly fiber practice kit to get the feel for covering the control surfaces and got my seat sewed up. The yellow tow strap laid on the seat in one picture is rated at 5400 lb and was sewed into the seat and is of great strength. I'm still having a great time building. Don J

Still working away on the T-Mono and check myself the other day and yep still alive.:cheezy grin:Plane is begging to get its wings built but many little things to do before the roots are put in for good. Materials are slow to come but we all are kinda use to that right ?working mainly on fuel and engine mount and the rest to get the FWF done. Stay safe all. Don

A quick drop in to show some pictures of the hardware built to get the controls working on the Taylor-mono. I have all the Aileron Diff't quadrant material from my KR-2 and at this time studying just how these will work in the root of the wing. Taylor print calls for 22.5 degrees in offset and as close as I can measure at this time is my KR-2 parts are at 21 degrees so I believe it will be just fine for it's new mission. I made a couple sets of elevator and rudder hinges I guess practice makes perfect. very near to getting the controls covered with fabric but first had to make and mount all metal parts and assure all worked well. My build has been the best baby sitter for me during these trying times and I hope every one is doing well. P.S. uploaded file was to large to post but you catch my drift. Don

I thought I should share with the forum the inner works of my root Spars. If you look close you can see how I took stock KR-2 root spars and removed the ply on one side and added bridge support braces internally. This probably was not needed but for some reason I feel more confident with the added bracing especially beings my landing gear is supported at the outer end of the spars. I'm still working on the task of getting the hinges done for I can get these parts covered. believe it or not fellas I'm still having a great time building...

Getting hinges lined up and checking on how much ply overhang I can have on Horz. Stab trailing edge

I'm at my final sanding on the rudder and just about messed up. I got one base ply glued on and was ready to glue on the other side and realized the internal part of the rudder needed varnished at the base. If I would have not caught this I don't think I could have sealed it without dipping into a large container of varnish. In some ways that would really seal it thick but what a waste of sealer and plus much added weight. Once I had base ply on one side I varnished internally then tapped off the inner glue line of the other base ply and varnished it good before gluing in place. Now with some healthy sanding along the bow I can pull all hinges and coat the exterior with varnish and focus on the covering job with fabric. I thought it would be good idea to let builders know of this near mistake I made. Don

I managed to get the added screws in the tail area I wanted for support of the Horz. Stab mounts blocks and just plugging along a little each day.

very nice project. Could you imagine building all those pieces by hand. have a great time and keep America posted

In this photo you can see the drag anti drag wood braces 45 degree to the spars I added in the elevator and Horz Stab. I will detail HS with balsa to get to same plain as the ribs to give more glue surface for the ply that covers the HS and elevators brace will remain hidden because it's fabric covered only. I added a x-member just back from the front HS spar to allow a slot to reach the mounting bolts and other end of bolts will be accessed from inspection holes per plans on side of fuselage. Doing the detail work allows me to run the ply out to the tip bows on both sides of the HS and the very tip will be sewed with small copper wire to re-enforce the glue were the two ply sheets meet at the tip bow. This has made a very strong tail group and once the HS is covered with ply I can use the HS for a ramp to load my motorcycle in the truck. JK-JK Now it's time to Varnish inside and get hinges in place.

What you think fellas ? will it fly ? SURE LIKE THIS SHOT FOR THE ALBUM.

Started finish work on the Horz. stab and added some compression braces internally to help aid in twist of the HS. I also added support brace between tip bow and front spar because this felt to be a weak area in leading edge. I will wrap leading edge with 1.5 mm ply with grain running 90 degrees to thrust line and have the 1 mm ply behind front spar with the grain running with thrust line. I've been contemplating on gluing foam blocks between nose ribs to help support leading edge skin but not sure if really needed. I will say that the shop area needs a good dusting and the empty coozy in first picture needs refilled.

The plans are very basic and leaves much left to figure out yourself but main subjects are covered. I find the build to be challenging but very enjoyable but is one plane you can't just blast threw. There is a lot of work in gusset prep and detail at the end of part being built. A Verner 3V would be sweet but vibration would be a hidden grimmlin I would be concerned about. Possible no problem at all but all wood air frames can be picky depending on glue quality and joint prep. I always had in my head a single rotor Mazda engine would be doable if you get 55hp at cruise and 75 hp at take off and have EFI and turbo. Thank you for your comments DRFlyer

Worked on detailing the Elevator and have one side done and also added a ground adjusted trim tab for aid in level flight at cruise. I have 3 SS screws in leading edge of tab and added a old trick I used in my RC airplane hinge mounting and that is taking tooth picks and drilling a slip fit hole and epoxying them in place. I added 3 of those just for extra strength but should not be needed. I feel no obstructions to interfere with air flow over the control surface other then the stitches them selves once covered. I have designed a in flight elev trim but more on that later when I make parts and install. As it stands right now it will be for up trim only but the same design will work on either cable so I may do both.

As it stand right now I plan NOT to have any electrical in the plane mainly because of the limited room FWF. We all have access to some amazing hand held GPS and radios. The airbag idea was just that. I was thinking of a way to raise and lower the leading edge of the Horz stab for in flight pitch trim instead of having a trim tab but its way to complicated for this tiny bird not to mention the weight and risk involved. In the picture you can see how I mounted a pulley in front of the Fin for the elevator cable. The prints show the cable's running threw a fair- leed and once that wears threw you start cutting wood because at that area the cable changes direction about 30 degrees. The last picture is of the pulleys I added for rudder cables before they exit the Fus. again on the prints the cables are actually ran threw the vertical uprights near the rear root spar and also with fair- leeds.

Nev. You right on that note of adding alot of weight but then a person gets to thinking of none metal things such as a "airbag" and movement is controlled by air and not a heavy metal all thread plus the rear mounts would have to hinge for movement. Oh well that's the joy of home built aircraft and man gets to scratch his head every now and then and try and come up with a new way of accomplishing mission. Its funny I have a 1939 Stinson HW75 that I cant find parts for and this T-mono that I have to make every part.