MajorTom
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Everything posted by MajorTom
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Yes Bob, but that was my fault. After the fin and rudder went so well, I completly rivetet the 6 ribs and the 2 longerons together. Made it nice and square and parallel, but followed the misplaces holes in the ribs. So I had to dissassemble the forward longeron. Had I left the clecos in until the last moment, I would have realised earlier and would have avoided some rivet out drilling. (learning by doing ;-)
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Thanks Bob...good idea. Checked them... they are o.k. Checked that too. Have to drill the rib and get the forward longeron 3mm out. Guess I cant just drill the rib. The result would be a longhole ( something like: (__) ) Am I to close the hole before I drill a new one? Otherwise the rivet would not grip, right?
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Talked just to @rmorton.. He has excatly the same problem!
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Just ran into trouble. I tried to put the skins on o the elevator. The front line of holes on both, upper and lower skin are about 3 mm to far forward. Yes, I double checked if I mixed directions, right, left, up, down or mixed up ribs.... No everything seem perfekt to me. The holes in the ribs and the longerons fit together perfect. The holes in the rear longeron and the ribs fit perfect to the skins. Problem is just the front line of holes. Not even the holes in the ribs fit to the holes in the skin. Actualy they do, except the foremost one. Thats the same on all ribs. There seems to be not to much I can do wrong, to the fitting of this one hole in every singe rib. Any ideas? I could just imagine to adjust the distance betwen the longerons and redrilling this two holes ( upper / lower side) on every rib.
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I'm coming to point, when there is the first cable to be put into the plane ( elevator trim ). Is there a handbook on how to do the riring in a plane? Found this post, (picture 4199) but don't think this is how it has got to be. Lyndons Savannah VG Thread
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Thank you very much Kyle. Your infos are always very helpful. Yesterday I unpacked my wingskins and salvaged the cutout of the tankcover. Can't beleave this big peace of alu-sheet is over. Making stripes were super easy. I used a carpet knife. 3-5 passes and bing.... a perfekt stripe came of. Will try bending over the table edge.
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Still don't now what to do. 1. copying SD 025 2. use stronger rivets or bolts 3. do nothing
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That I'm sure of. But I have not put the skins on yet.... So thanks to your great help, I dont have to drill out anything. The fact, that you want to reopen you stabiliser showes me, that doing the mod is worth it. I'm thinking of using the plastic tips to make new tips from glass and epoxi. They should be thinner... so no big step I hope. @Kyle Communications One more question: You started with the stiffener on the last rivet betwen the 2 sheets an the longeron, right? Doesn't that make a bump, where the "unexpectet" material starts? What about putting a shorter stiffener just were there is nothing under the sheets?
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Another NEW Savannah XL on its way That's what I thought. Nice, but how did you get the extra stiffners, or better how do I get some. Is there enough aluminium to salvage? Maybe cutouts? I don't remember, if there where cutouts for the tank covers. If yes, they are not needed elsewhere right?
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Could you be more specific? What means vulnerable? I could imagine riveting a little L-shape stiffener under the two skins. 192.168.0.100_069629.pdf 192.168.0.100_069629.pdf 192.168.0.100_069629.pdf
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Any final solution to this topic? Mirroring part 025 seams a good idea. On the other handside, if all other parts around are fine, then this would be just to much and a simple M4 ore M5 bolt instead of the outermost rivet would do as well. So, what to do?
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So do I..... will try your way first. Like the idea with the stripes betwen skin and rib. Anyway now the manual says you are to use the flexible angled stripes. Still there is the problem with this overszised fin tip... Guess I take some epoxi an a make my own.
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One thing seems odd to me. The fin tip is just to big. It could be bent, but the part is heavy and strong. And if I bent it to fit the fin, it will still be to fat on top. Any ideas?
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On Sunday, I was thinking it would take just 2 or 3 hours to assemble the rudder, now that all parts are ready. Thought wrong. It would not have taken long to do the inner frame and the two skins, but there where springy covers. They gave me something to think about. In the end, with a little bending esp. of ST515 it worked out nicely.
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Well, it moves on.... Finished my fin on friday. Result locks good to me. Little obstacles where easily solved due to prewarning from Bob and Co. .... Thanks again. Spend 5 hours on saturday to debur and prime all parts for the rudder. Seems very long, when I think of it, but while doing it, I had the impression it worked very well. I found my upper rib to be deformed. The part must have been twisted during manufacturing. I decided to glue im some scrap alu, so there is enough material to redrill the hole for perfect fit.
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To do what? Are you serious? Is there enough meat on them?
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Or drill out and use the A4 coutersunk rivets in the kit.... Maybe countersinkink this part is not that important, but I don't know. Have not been reading all the manual. Just wanted to start after 35 hours of sorting and checking.
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Exactly, wish they would be more detailed and with part numbers.
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Last picture is definetly not like in the figure in the manual!
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I asked ICP about the missing A3 coutersunk rivets in most kits. I also tried to explain that Chapter 10 is the first thing builders like us are working on. So the very first thing to do is to fasten the anchor nuts. First task - first problem ... not very promissing...
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look here, Bob explains well : Savannah S Build Notes - Some Tools What do you think about exchanging our phone number. We could help each other fast, when we run into trouble.
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Hey Richard, you are to kind. I just try to do it right. And to be honest, when I read the manual I don't feel very smart. It's like 50% wondering what to to, 30% deburring and anticorrosion, but just 20% airplanebuilding. Finished the fin. But could not do the rivnuts... . Need to buy the propper rivnut tool Manual said not to rivet the upper and lower rib. But I found no reason not to rivet the lover rib. Decided not rivet the upper rib until I know what to do about the fin tip. Last picture is an easy tool to modificate rivets into countersunk rivets. There is a good tip (or do you say hint) with good photos and explanation here on the forum. How are you coming forward?
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Could not stand counting and sorting and chasing after missing parts any longer. So I started with the fin. First page - first problem ... the A3 flushhead rivets for the anchor nuts where missing. But, due to this friendly site I was well prepared an and did the modification. Deburring worked verry well, no problem at all. Used a file for bigger irregularities. Tried a one blade deburring tool and a spezial dubblebladed tool for thin sheets. Both worked real good. Final touch came from a 3" scotch brite weel in a stand drill. Priming went well also. Used some scotch brite pad and some silicon remover to clean the surfaces. Apllied light grey etch primer. Good stuff... inexpensiv, very sticky, fast drying, not black.... looks a little like what (i)Bobs is doing. The manual sucks but the rest is REAL FUN.
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Call it what you want, but while waiting for my kit to arrive, I put in a reservation for a number (dont't know the right term) for my savannah. I included the whole family and we had a lot of fun. Showed them the NATO-alphabet and still aviable numbers. My son voted for something with a lot of "W"s and "V"s so I would twist my thounge and say something embarassing. We ended up with D-MDYZ
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o.k. will try.... bending it back didn't work... the part was bend in one direction and deformed in the other direction
