Update to whats been happening on the 90% to go
Got some of the Carlisle tyres for the mains from the guy down south. What a drama with the tyres trying to fit them and the tubes. I think I posted I had to get Danny to give me a hand but the tubes supplied dont fit very well at all and I managed to stuff a tube it got clamped between the hubs and stuffed it. I had the original tubes from the Carlisles that were on her originally so got one of those and it fitted so much better. but getting the tyres off the rims is just a nightmare. So I made a adhock puller so I could somehow press the tyre down on the rims to get one side free to replace the tube...it made it much easier but it was still crap. I think I will refine it and maybe start making a few to put out there as it seems to be a common issue. I thought one of the guys who went through 3 tubes the same way I did was doing it wromg...not really it is just a terrible thing to try to do.
Been working on the fuel system so the feed from the header tank goes to a throw away filter same as I had in the girlfriend..they are cheap and very good then off to the pump. Used a new fuel tap on the floor with a far better operating handle so thats halfway done. The fuel line will go to a gascolator mounted on the engine side of the firewall where the electric pump is on the std savannahs this again is as I had it on the girlfriend..A bit difficult working in that hole...dont know how I did it when I was 40kg heavier.
I was testing the current draw of the pump for danny so he could size his breakers for his Esqual rebuild and discovered how dirty the Facet pump is...I cant believe they dont have a freewheeling diode inside...sent my DC power supply a nice voltage bump up to 14.7V when I was feeding it 14V so I have put a diode on the pump that will stop any noise when its on...
In the pics is the new circuit I will use as standard now for Mabel and the RANS S-21. How many times have you taken off and forgot to turn off the elec pump also if you did lose fuel pressure from the engine driven pump and you didint see it the first thing would be the engine coughing or it stops. So this mod is pretty easy and gives you a manual option and auto.
It requires a pressure switch they are about $45 and this goes in to outlet side of your mechanical pump the switch has 2 contacts NO and NC. When the engine starts it will switch at 2bar so you use the normally closed side of the pressure switch to do the wiring in my diagram. You have a centre off switch on the dash. Auto/Off/Manual
So once you go to start the engine flick the switch to auto and the elec pump will start then leave it to build the pressure like normal...or you could select manual and do it the old way then once the engine is started flick it to auto the elec pump should turn off. If your any reason the mech pump loses pressure during takeoff or anywhere in the flight the electric pump will switch on and you will see a big flashing LED every time that pump is running. So in mid flight if it comes on you know you have had a failure but the engine should still be running fine, Its pretty simple but I think also effective and a extra level of safety.
Currently doing some plumbing of oil and water on the engine and will get back onto the avionics...one thing though I havent decided on is where to mount my headset jacks....didnt really like where I mounted them in the girlfriend..there must be a better solution...any suggestions or pics would be appreciated
Mark