Kyle Communications

Not sure if I put this in my original XL blog. But obviously I did this again with the rebuild. The two bottom mounts on the engine mount first than did them up. I just used some straps on the top of the mount to pull it to the firewall. Then once it was nice to the firewall and dead centre of the vertical alu support I drilled the top holes from the engine mount side at the top. I then fixed it temporarily with 2 bolts and drilled the middle ones into the steel support brackets. I then pused the cabin frame front up to meet at the tops and used longer sts boltes to pull the cabin frame to the motor mount. Only took me 30 mins or so. It helps of course if you have done it more than once 🙂

Very rough rule of thumb is whater the price in US$ is the purchase price then basically double that and you have the price in aussie dollars landed everything paid US$125,000 at .72Cents was about AU$240,000 by the time you get it in the hangar

The cap is there to absorb the spikes and crap coming from the reg. The rotax engine manual actually states that it an "optional component". It appears its main function to Rotax is noise filtering not so much ripple filtering Glenn is correct it does depend a lot on how the wiring is setup. Everyone has a different idea about how it should be done. It depends on how you look at it..the perspective I mean. What Glenn and I would do is not necessarily the same as stated in the manuals. We look at it more from a electronics point of view and protecting those expensive bits of silicon For example every single power supply requires both ripple filtering for the rectifier and also noise filtering for interference and also there needs to be voltage spike protection. Powersupplies most often have a zener diode across the output. For example a DC supply that is used for say your base station aviation radio may have a zener diode across the output. That is to put a direct short on that output if the reg craps itself and puts more than 13.8V on the output. The 15 or 16V or even 18v zenner will conduct and cause a massive current to flow that then blows either a DC or the AC fuse in the supply. This should protect the equipment attached to the supply. This is no different to the DC being generated in your aircraft. There needs to be ripple conditioning for the actual DC coming out of the reg then there should be some sort of over voltage protection which there is not in any Rotax install that I have seen and most installs have a fuse somewhere that blows when your radio or EFIS becomes the zener diode

Much larger heatsink and a proper heatsink not a cast bit of scrap alu is used for the unit.

I am using high speed hi current TO-247 package diodes The bridges they use almost unsolder the tags from the pcbs..we have pulled a heap apart and repaired them. other issues as well with heat too...the bridges they use are std and good for 50 hz but not for 500hz

Glenn the Rotax has 8 poles and at 5800 rpm its about 464 hz out of the generator. You can see at around 5000 rpm on the first cro pic the freq is 416hz

Thats one of ours....the std generator is max 18 amps but it gets pretty hot. The big issue is the actual ducati regulator..its a POS. They use a std bridge rectifier in it and the amount of heat often creates bad a cooked solder joints on the main current components. Ours uses high current single package diodes and SCR's. Thats from a year ago those waveforms..its even better now. We decided to limit the current to a base of 10 amps so not to cook Litium batteries if the internal BMS craps itself in the battery and also by limiting the voltage you should never have any issue with the Lithium. There is a plug selector to allow higher currents up to 14 amps for charging. We decided that was the limit for the generator. Ours has far far better heatsinking as well. It also has the same hole mounting specs as the original

Yep flick those 2 rivets..the strength is the bolt through it..and a wide washer is needed as well on the inside on the floor. If I was at home I could post a pic of the sav version but I am away for another 5 days

The Rotax generator is a dirty simple thing. The std regulator is also a dirty and poorly designed and built unit. Typical of most motorbike stuff. The reg we have redone and running is far better it is also capable of very good current limiting and voltage regulation. We have a unit testing now and it has gone through some "fine tuning". I am currently doing the final layout of the pcb. It will be in 2 parts. You can have a very good regulator only and with another unit that bolts on underneath you can then have current limit and voltage limiting which will allow you to use a Lithium battery safely. It will of course charge other chemistry batteries perfectly fine. This is a early version the regulator only.

Totally depends on the bucks you want to spend. I have been using the MGL Xtreme in my sav for 5 years..I liked it so much I bought another for it..they fit in a std 3 1/8 hole. if you want far better accuracy then you need to get the SP 6 compass module..which works just fantastic and also the SP 7 AHRS module. The Xtremem you dont have to get them but it is sort of like the Dynon then. The local MGL guys here know how to charge..probably be better to import from the USA now the dollar is better The Sav rebuild I bought another Xtreme for it also a SP6 and SP7 and a RDAC as well which will allow the same instrument to be a engine monitor..its very accurate. For the RANS S-21 I have the MGL Explorer 8.5 inch with the Ibox as it will have a dual axis autopilot. I have all the bits for the total install inc the new V16 radio...that works really well too. Its a new type of internal digital design..it has a playback function so if you miss a call just press the button and it will replay it for you..it is also capable of doing 10 watts and has a SWR meter built in so if you have any coax or antenna issues it will bring up a flag I believe with the Xtreme and the latest software you can fit servos for autopilot for it as well but not going to spend another 2k for 2 sevos for the Sav

The Pilot Aware system must have a series of antennas round style head on a cardinal arrangement to get those tracks...Do you know if it is a rotating switched arrangement ? or just a dopler arrangement for RSSI for the reciever?

https://www.rotax.com/en/100-years/historical-vehicles-engines/detail/type-936.html?fbclid=IwAR0piK9bnOzo91aDYZ4ZslfbC6KnD8lQ-D6c6wCO9c-06sC96AKx0yn_lB8

I think it will be along the SAAA rules for maint etc for home builders and mostly the same as normal GA for the factory builts

I think it will happen quicker than 5 years..more like 1 to 2 years

Hi Gary No I havent heard anything further. i read a bit more about it though and there is a small difference in why it cant been seen but not sure if it is true or not. On another note I have my V16 running here and it seems to be pretty good so far. It does require some adjustment of levels as it is quite configurable. Rainer has a setup on the MGL forum..the new forum the old one has been shut down

I am led to believe yes you can been seen by ATC because that is why you need the hex code for it as it goes into the system so you can be seen. TCAS in another aircraft will not see you apparently as it is the type that it is here The restricted power and radiation of the Skyecho will drop in and out of the ATC ground stations but they will still register on their system because you are outputting a ID that they give to you

Well thats a good thing..just check all the bits and pieces..but thats what I would do..especially if your only using it 5 days a month..would pay for itself in no time and makes it really convienient..proplem is you will do less work and more flying when your supposed to be working 🙂

It doesnt amtter what ops..here at Ycab there are access agreements for some schools to operate from their hangars and the commercial operators do so from land that is freehold on the edge of the actual airfield perimeter so are on different land even though they can access the airfield...just make sure you know all the dots thats all

Just be aware a lot of council leases do not allow commercial ops in the hangar..need to check it out

Mine is 6 inch at the farm hangar and it is 18m x 15m I have a huge 140hp SAME tractor it weighs about 8tonne in there and my Massey is about 5 tonne...no dramas at all plus heaps of other stuff its been up about5 years now and not one sign of cracking

why a 8 inch slab..your not putting 20 tonnes on it...most big slabs are 4 to 6 inch max

Most concrete floors are costed as a sq metre cost. There is a rough rule of thumb for it and that includes the reo and footings

Its called a Microstop But be carefull the std set of countersinks that comes with it is 100 or 110 deg...NOT 120 deg...you have to buy teh 120deg set separetly I had to get one for building my Rans S-21..Rodger who got his with mine when we bought them in found out the hard way about the wrong angle supplied bits. luckily for me as he had to put larger rivets in those spots

Its mercury inside so be carefull..it shouldnt be rattling thats for sure

About US$250 he says for that Lidar unit....I think it would all be better integrated as well but thats a lot larger job than most think. The software is major to get it all to work together at once. Its much easier to make single instruments but not practical for instal. But one or 2 special little ones dotted on the dash somewhere would be handy..like that Lidar one