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Kyle Communications

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Everything posted by Kyle Communications

  1. Not sure if this link will work but check this out for experimental or RAA use. This one the Lidar head is only a small one but he has a Lidar head that will do 500ft https://www.facebook.com/j.cox.92372/videos/10221775648973824
  2. Its not if you ever have a ground loop its WHEN you are going to have a ground loop they all say with TD aircraft 🙂
  3. There is a mix and match of tyres people run here. I had 600.6 Condors on mine on all 3 the rebuild I am doing has turfglides all around...the mains will be fine but you do need a wider fork for the turfglides I am sure for the nosewheel
  4. Glad you found the issue..that sounds like it will be the problem. It couldnt have been anything else
  5. Yes they do well ln the installs I have seen do..the IS engines seem to issues with plugs etc from the couple at our airfield. They have had issues luckily on the ground where they dont start..turned out to be a lot of the internal plug connections from what I have been told
  6. Check out my rebuild on here it may help you although I have done my own strengthening mods in the critical areas
  7. I think you will find you have the noseleg fork on the wrong way..it needs to be spun 180 deg
  8. V16 with the head and box..hope this link works https://www.facebook.com/mark.kyle.980/videos/10223583214233579/
  9. Glen If I get any given to me I will send them down to you...your a glutton for punishment 🙂 Make the radio a box with a small 2/14 head as not a lot of dash space with some of these panels now or 2 ipads in the dash. The MGL V16 is pretty good its a semi DSP style radio it has the chassis you mount somewhere then just uses a CAN bus for the display head. it works pretty well I have been using one here on the test bench for a while it is going into my RANS S-21 with MGL EFIS full autopilot etc. The V16 comes up on the Efis display but I also got the Vega head so i can still have "knob" control.
  10. Aaron...just remember your headset will be directly inline and pretty close the RF coming off the antenna. Internal antennas not only are difficult to do properly but can have a lot of RF interference into your electronics
  11. The problen is you just cant get a lot of this inside many aircraft so you just try to get as much as you can inside. I have seen a few dipoles inside some Jab aircraft but these dont have very good radiation patterns it again depends on the orientation of the antenns. Its all a compromise in composite aircraft. All alu aircraft of course its simple.
  12. 1/4 wave in free space at 118 mhz is 635 mm so anything above that size will be ok...obviously the more you can get the better and yes you can run radials out from this to increas the size. Its all relative really on how you do it to fit your particular aircraft. The one thing to always remember is more is better. So make it as big as you can. Also remember too that the more one sided your counterpoise is this will also offset the radiation pattern that you are transmitting so try to keep it symetrical if you want roughly the same signal output in all directions. If you want to do some quick numbers the formula is 300 divided by the frequency in megaherts then divded by 4 ..this will give you the numbers in free space for a 1/4 wave but if you want to know the length in coax then you multiply by the velocity factor of the coax. usually you will do this in the centre of the frequency band or on a specific frequency if you want it "tuned" to a point
  13. Mobile One makes a aviation antenna that has a 1/4 wave stub antenna underneath it. It works..often used on the tailboom of trikes. I use one up at my farm on a post. I have a proper base station ground plane antenna now that will go up there. When you put the hole through the fuselage you would be best served to get some 20 thou sheet and make it at least 600 square or round if you can and shape it roughly to the inside contour of the skin and either glue it there or attach it somehow. It depends a lot on the antenna but as I said the more metal area you can get it will work better
  14. I have always hated the foil. Much prefer to use say 0.020 sheet as the antenna base can then bite into the alu without breaking through
  15. Eprop are saying 4kg including the spinner
  16. The earth plate should be connected to the frame of the aircraft even though its just tube as the more mass you can get attached to the earth the better On the lightspeed mine is turned all the way dow...not 1/4 turn on as I found the gain to be massive with the lightspeed. Then do the adjustment on the Xcom
  17. Looks like a Brumby in SA had a scare in a paddock..something about a fuel pump issue. Well it looks like a new Brumby
  18. No pricing yet of course as I said on the Eprop IFA or CS units. I dont think it is going to be cheap but I suppose when you see the pricing of the Airmaster and others..who knows. Anyway as soon as I know something I will post it here
  19. on the lightspeeds with a Xcom... you need to remove the mic muff and adjust the mic gain pot in the actual mic section. Typically it is turned all the way down then you adjust the mic gain on the Xcom to suit. The Lightspeeds seem to ahve a lot of audio out so you need to dampen it down
  20. Bad SWR..not enough earth ground plane on the base of the antenna. Its RF getting up the nose of the mic or leads of the headsets Skyranger is fabric and alu tube..do you have at least 600x600 alu plate somewhere that the antenna is mounted on?
  21. Yes it only goes on the threads no where else. I used it on my Savannah every time I changed the plugs
  22. Its the same stuff as used for transistor heatsinks..go to Jaycar or altronics and get the white heastsink silcone paste
  23. Dan the quickest and easiest way to confirm there is something wrong with the charge coils for the CDI or a issue with shorting inside the harness is to use a multimeter and do the test for voltage as you spin the engine over with the starter..this will at least give you some better direction to look at
  24. Dan I know you have done a lot of checks as per emails. M61A1 Mick has posted his issue...this is more than likely similar to yours. This would certainly give you the symptoms you are seeing. Do the test with the multimeter on AC volts on the red wires this will confirm you are getting power or not and you dont need to pull the engine out
  25. Sorry Mike I didnt see your previous post on the voltages.
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